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Something else i noticed on my quest today. With engine running and turbo growling at idle,if I disconnect the vacuum line to the turbo the growl disappears and i guess no boost ,if i put my finger on the end of the vacuum line from reaervoir on inner guard i have a build up of vacuum.
When i plug the line back in the turbo seems to boost slowly and start to growl. All at idle (no hair left)
May be the actuator is stuck or diaphram is punctured?Quote:
Originally Posted by theelms66
You might have to remove the turbo and see what gives.
Thanks Mario. At this stage i would assume [which is something you should never do] actuator is ok .by removing the vacuum line i can engage and disengage the boost . If you get a minute can you plug in your gap tool and check your boost at idle . Also i dont get where the vacuum is being produced at idle because there is no throttle flap to create a venturi for vacuum so is there a vacuum pump of some sort.
I'll phone you later, and well go through it.Quote:
Originally Posted by theelms66
Justin, I just connected my IIDtool BT to my mine TD6 and I get live reading of "Key on" engine not running reading 14.40. Engine idling 15.50 and driving anywhere from 17 -36 psi Also you quote 14.7 atmosphere pressure which is at sea level, I am are 134 metres to 401 metres above seal level (depending on where I am in our suburb) so that's why my reading would be different.Quote:
Originally Posted by justinc
Its an absolute reading then.
Jc
My previous L322 was TD6 and suspected turbo getting tired at 270,000km. Quite noisy.
Looked into new one but around $1600 .
Found UK manufactured CHRA for around $350 so thats the way I went.
have to remove turbo in order to fit.
Car did perform better and fuel consumption improved by 1/2-1 L/100km, but still some turbo whine at low speeds. Just learned to live with it until sold.
This sounds like the valve (mounted under the small reservoir) - or the signal to the valve. Without being able to do this test for you (I can tonight if needed) it would be interesting to know what voltage is at the valve plug at idle on a vehicle that is working. compare to yours then you know if its the valve or the signal (harness issue) to it. However, if there's an issue with the harness, I would expect a fault code to match as the ECU would detect open circuit.Quote:
Originally Posted by theelms66
If it is the valve - and you have removed the EGR, the good news is the EGR valve (which is no longer needed) is the same.
Couple of points (spent a bit of time chasing boost control issues)
- Yes - the boost reading (IID tool display) from the ECU is absolute, some tools may do the calculation for you. Mine reports 2.375 max ** 2.375-1(the atmosphere we are in)=1.375 ** 1.375x14.504=19.943psi
IID tool reads boost in 1/8th increments
- a small vac pump and gauge can be plumbed in for testing the valve operation.
Thanks Harlie .sounds like a plan .yes i have removed egr so that is good to know
They have the same solenoid