Locked out after sitting for 10 days

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Originally Posted by garrycol

but then they do built them where the park brake will not unlock and the gearbox cannot get out of park without power - so maybe they do.

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Not so as mechanical options exist for both.

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Not so as mechanical options exist for both.

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Yes, only if you pull half the console apart, not easy to do in an emergency or if someone not familiar with the cars is trying to move it in an emergency. There is a youtube video where a RRS in the UK got drowned because "rescuers" could not get it out of park and release the handbrake because the RRS had no power. the rescuers did not know about the emergency releases.

Sorry - but these are the sort of things that should still work without power - as should the emergency car unlocking process.

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Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Mario and if your battery is recoverable, and it probably will be, but be aware that you may now get unrelated error and fault messages when you drive.

This is usually a good indication that your cranking battery needs to be replaced and once replace, the mystery messages will stop.

BTW, how often did you drive your RR before leaving it for 10 days?

I do very little driving with my RR and would be lucky to go a week with out needing to charge the batteries. I now have a 10w solar panel connected up to the auxiliary battery and this easily keeps both batteries fully charged, regardless of how long I leave my RR unused.

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I did use it usually daily but not long trips. I was thinking of a solar charger wired up somewhere.
I went for a drive today, it started up after 2 days sitting after I recharged the battery.

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Originally Posted by bee utey

A suggestion for the future: an Anderson plug wired direct to the battery and hidden just behind the bumper bar, and jumper leads to match. This would let you start both your own car or anyone else's without opening the bonnet.

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Well, I have mine set up similar to that. But for one thing, the lead with Anderson plug to the battery is isolated via the winch isolating solenoid, so needs voltage to operate and the switch for it is inside the car. The second problem with that is: where do you keep your special jumper leads with the Anderson plug? Mine are stowed under the passenger seat, so again, need to be able to open the car first.

You can usually find somebody with standard jumper leads, or a portable booster, so it may be better to have a concealed emergency pull to open the bonnet.

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Originally Posted by Old Farang

Well, I have mine set up similar to that. But for one thing, the lead with Anderson plug to the battery is isolated via the winch isolating solenoid, so needs voltage to operate and the switch for it is inside the car. The second problem with that is: where do you keep your special jumper leads with the Anderson plug? Mine are stowed under the passenger seat, so again, need to be able to open the car first.

You can usually find somebody with standard jumper leads, or a portable booster, so it may be better to have a concealed emergency pull to open the bonnet.

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make up a lead and fit an anderson plug, then some one with a jumper lead can energise the wires you have to power the locks to get in, Next problem though where do you store these lead out side the Vehicle ?

My L322 Caravan Dual Battery kit has a 6B&S Twin cable lead permanently fitted under the rear bumper.


Even if you do not fit a dual battery kit, you could still connect to the power supply in the middle of the fuse panel in the driver’s side rear guard and run the cable out from there.


Just remember to fit a 50 amp auto resetting circuit breaker near where you connect to the fuse panel.

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Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

make up a lead and fit an anderson plug, then some one with a jumper lead can energise the wires you have to power the locks to get in, Next problem though where do you store these lead out side the Vehicle ?

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Something as simple as a screw driver or a brass key can be inserted into the positive terminal to hang a jumper lead off. The negative can go on an adjacent bolt perhaps. The important thing is to have a live terminal where you don't have to get under the vehicle to energise it.

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Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares

make up a lead and fit an anderson plug, then some one with a jumper lead can energise the wires you have to power the locks to get in, Next problem though where do you store these lead out side the Vehicle ?

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Sorry Mario, you have completely confused me? Please read that which I have posted.

As the problem appears to be access to the battery for what ever reason, then surely a concealed emergency release is more appropriate than all sorts of Anderson plugs, keys stuck in wherever, unfused leads laying about? My Anderson plug is connected to the dead side of the winch isolator for that very reason.

Aren't modern all electronic singing and dancing cars great fun. Can't unlock them, can't push start them, some you can't put in gear, some the handbrake won't release. Most of the stuff they are fitted with are unnecessary, pure selling tools, so a salesman can engage in a ****ing contest with the salesman for another make.

My County has no electronics other than the voltage regulator on the alternato and the radio/CD player. Doesn't cut out suddenly because a two cent resistor sealed up in a $1000 component box has decided to die.

So have we confirmed yet whether the earlier L322s cannot be unlocked with a key when the battery is dead?

Or heaven forbid, did LR actually learn from this design disaster and put this function into the D3/RRS? I assume the later L322 can be unlocked with the key.

Garry