A Much Better idea than mucking about with battery chargers and solar panels, Lucky BuggerPlus every few weeks i'll be doing a good day trip to see the delights of Tassie.![]()
Thanks everyone that has replied to my first post, much appreciated.
The battery will be fully charged as I tend to do around 50-70k's every trip plus its highway run not stop start.
Plus every few weeks i'll be doing a good day trip to see the delights of Tassie.
disco gazza
2014 Freelander SE TD4
2003 Range Rover TD6
92 disco tdi manual sold
95 disco tdi auto gone
A Much Better idea than mucking about with battery chargers and solar panels, Lucky BuggerPlus every few weeks i'll be doing a good day trip to see the delights of Tassie.![]()
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
20190216_092832.jpg
This is the specs of my spare solar charger
2014 Freelander SE TD4
2003 Range Rover TD6
92 disco tdi manual sold
95 disco tdi auto gone
Hi Gazza, that is the specs on the back of your solar panel.
This is an unregulated solar panel.
While it is highly unlikely that that panel will have enough power to raise your cranking battery voltage much over 14.0v, with out a solar regulator, you might keep an eye on the voltage of your battery, in the afternoon, if you use the panel without a regulator.
NOTE, if I was using that panel, I would not both using a solar regulator, but a 10 watt solar panel is the largest I would use with out a regulator, in a single battery setup.
Regulators are cheap. Jaycar have them. As others have said, you either have one on the panel or next to the battery. If next to the battery it will overcome worries about voltage drop as the full power generated will flow down the cable to the regulator before being curbed.
I have used 10 metre heavy cables with a regulator without problems. It's set and forget.
Sorry to not pick - the full voltage of the panel minus voltage drop will get to the remotely mounted reg. Power is volts x amps - and current flow - and hence power, is dictated by the load, so is variable and full power may not be delivered due to this.
With my OCD satisfied, please carry on...
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
Have had a look at panels on fleabay and found this one.
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/10W-12V-...r/123313817513
Is this what I should get?
TIA
2014 Freelander SE TD4
2003 Range Rover TD6
92 disco tdi manual sold
95 disco tdi auto gone
I'd go a bit bigger. 30 to 50 watts minimum IMO. You can't go too big, but you can go too small.
If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.
No worries, I was just trying to keep it simple, but maybe not clear. I'll try again.
For part of the day the panel will probably generate more than the regulator will allow, so allowing that extra to flow down the wiring to a regulator near the battery, minus voltage drop, could mean the maximum allowed by the regulator could reach the battery for a longer period, compared with the regulator being on the panel and immediately limiting it.
That better?
If you're only trickle charging 10 watts will do it, but as Homestar says bigger is better.
That's a low price for an MPPT charger - I wonder if it really is, or just a PWM.
A PWM would do the job fine.
I have an old15 watt panel with a PWM I use to recondition batteries and it works fine.
Basically you just want to excite the cells for a period each day and then let them rest.
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