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Thread: A plea for help

  1. #1
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    A plea for help

    Folks I have contributed to and been given help from AULRO for many years.
    However today told me it is time to give mechanical work on my L322 and any other vehicle to others.
    Turning 78 next week and having 2 back ops really told on me today and I have to walk away from incomplete work so no more.
    That has me suffering both mentally and physically.
    I had a reach motor bracket to replace on the steering column. Getting the column out was one thing but completing the work is now beyond me.
    Embarrassing? You bet.However I have to be honest to myself and others.
    I have enjoyed AULRO and much discussion over the years.
    How I am ever going to get my car completed I do not know so if you know anyone that would take on something I started let me know.
    I will now work on my health.
    Thanks for everything AULRO

  2. #2
    Homestar's Avatar
    Homestar is offline Super Moderator & CA manager Subscriber
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    Sorry to hear it’s that time. My Farther in Law (similar age) recently came to the same conclusion working on some items on his hobby farm. Hard time for him when it came. As for someone to finish it, maybe PM Dave (Blknight.aus here on the forum) - he does mobile work on the weekends as although he usually works on older models, I’m sure he could wrangle yours back together.
    If you need to contact me please email homestarrunnerau@gmail.com - thanks - Gav.

  3. #3
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    A big thanks to Homestar

    Quote Originally Posted by Homestar View Post
    Sorry to hear it’s that time. My Farther in Law (similar age) recently came to the same conclusion working on some items on his hobby farm. Hard time for him when it came. As for someone to finish it, maybe PM Dave (Blknight.aus here on the forum) - he does mobile work on the weekends as although he usually works on older models, I’m sure he could wrangle yours back together.
    Homestar:
    I wont bother Biknight as this needs to looked at by someone very familiar with L322 steering columns and grossly unfair to ask someone who is not.
    i do however thank you for responding.
    if I cannot get help from an experienced in L322 I will remove dashboard fascia so I do not have to get under a small access area.

    Having studied the RR shop manual further and rested this old body and mind I will give this issue another shot and not worry if it takes me a week.
    Last edited by uteman; 5th July 2019 at 09:47 PM. Reason: Having another go at the repair

  4. #4
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    Quote Originally Posted by uteman View Post
    Homestar:
    I wont bother Biknight as this needs to looked at by someone very familiar with L322 steering columns and grossly unfair to ask someone who is not.
    i do however thank you for responding.
    if I cannot get help from an experienced in L322 I will remove dashboard fascia so I do not have to get under a small access area.

    Having studied the RR shop manual further and rested this old body and mind I will give this issue another shot and not worry if it takes me a week.
    Ray, It's not a scarey as it first looks, I did it to replace the steering angle sensor and was surprised. Just be careful when unclipping the tabs that hold the centre vents as they get brittle with age from memory there is a cable attached at the back of them that needs to be unclipped before you can remove front crash pad .

    all screws are torx

    The top dash pad is torx screwed on you need to removes the end trims and vents to get to the hidden little torx screws.e, there are a couple of hidden screws under the top speaker vent grille.
    Be careful when you removed the glove box, as you need to unclip the glove box lock latch to remove the glove form the dash. The latch has a little spring in it, once this poops out near impossible to reseat it. The catch is over $100 ex UK.
    The Passenger Side of the crash pad took a bit of force to pull it ff the clips if I recall. Once the dash pad is out the job on the steering column is only a couple of minutes work then the process is reverse putting the pad back on.

    Mine, it looks scarey but not really
    Capture.JPG


  5. #5
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    if it came out it'll go back in.

    so long as the parts are all there, all the screws bagged up and located I'm more than happy to lay on the dexterity of my fingers (and the appies) if you can point to the parts in the right sequence.

    (its always frustrating trying to put back what someone else pulled apart, you always spend more time looking for bits than assembling)
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

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  6. #6
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    A word of thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    if it came out it'll go back in.

    so long as the parts are all there, all the screws bagged up and located I'm more than happy to lay on the dexterity of my fingers (and the appies) if you can point to the parts in the right sequence.

    (its always frustrating trying to put back what someone else pulled apart, you always spend more time looking for bits than assembling)
    Blknight.aus: you are a gentleman.
    Having calmed down and gotten over some back and neck pain I looked at the car with a different point of view realising that if took me a month it would not matter one bit so sat in the car removing necessary parts to get lower trim off which I should have done in first instance. Not that difficult and now I can see what I am doing.
    Will I work on it tomorrow? Maybe and maybe not with my revised attitude.
    many thanks for your kind offer but fingers crossed I will be ok without the pain.

  7. #7
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    Got it done

    [QUOTE=Roverlord off road spares;2921957]Ray, It's not a scarey as it first looks, I did it to replace the steering angle sensor and was surprised. Just be careful when unclipping the tabs that hold the centre vents as they get brittle with age from memory there is a cable attached at the back of them that needs to be unclipped before you can remove front crash pad .

    all screws are torx

    The top dash pad is torx screwed on you need to removes the end trims and vents to get to the hidden little torx screws.e, there are a couple of hidden screws under the top speaker vent grille.
    Be careful when you removed the glove box, as you need to unclip the glove box lock latch to remove the glove form the dash. The latch has a little spring in it, once this poops out near impossible to reseat it. The catch is over $100 ex UK.
    The Passenger Side of the crash pad took a bit of force to pull it ff the clips if I recall. Once the dash pad is out the job on the steering column is only a couple of minutes work then the process is reverse putting the pad back on.

    Mine, it looks scarey but not really
    Capture.JPG[/

    ROverlord: I should have done that in first instance. It was quite easy and I suffered no back or neck pain.
    it was silly of me to attempt laying down under dash. We all a make mistakes and trying to shortcut the job was one of my very best.

    i will also do lubrication of the magnetic piece that affects the ignition locking up as that has happened twice.
    i see many people drill a hole in the aluminium housing and squirt WD40. However I think about where the drilling swarf is ending up.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  8. #8
    Roverlord off road spares is offline AT REST
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    [QUOTE=uteman;2922337]
    Quote Originally Posted by Roverlord off road spares View Post
    Ray, It's not a scarey as it first looks, I did it to replace the steering angle sensor and was surprised. Just be careful when unclipping the tabs that hold the centre vents as they get brittle with age from memory there is a cable attached at the back of them that needs to be unclipped before you can remove front crash pad .

    all screws are torx

    The top dash pad is torx screwed on you need to removes the end trims and vents to get to the hidden little torx screws.e, there are a couple of hidden screws under the top speaker vent grille.
    Be careful when you removed the glove box, as you need to unclip the glove box lock latch to remove the glove form the dash. The latch has a little spring in it, once this poops out near impossible to reseat it. The catch is over $100 ex UK.
    The Passenger Side of the crash pad took a bit of force to pull it ff the clips if I recall. Once the dash pad is out the job on the steering column is only a couple of minutes work then the process is reverse putting the pad back on.

    Mine, it looks scarey but not really
    Capture.JPG[/

    ROverlord: I should have done that in first instance. It was quite easy and I suffered no back or neck pain.
    it was silly of me to attempt laying down under dash. We all a make mistakes and trying to shortcut the job was one of my very best.

    i will also do lubrication of the magnetic piece that affects the ignition locking up as that has happened twice.
    i see many people drill a hole in the aluminium housing and squirt WD40. However I think about where the drilling swarf is ending up.
    Ray, now you know what's involved in changing the radio to an upgrade. I also replaced a couple of dash bulbs while I was at it , much brighter now on the instruments as a couple of them were coming to the end of their life.
    cheers, Mario


  9. #9
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    Steering

    The pins that hold the cover for the steering lock are roll pins I don know if you can find something to insert inside the pins and remove them something similar to an easy out maybe I couldn’t so I managed to drill the bottom three out, then I levered the cover up and slid it down away from the top pins.The lock mechanism is located in place by the outer cover so be careful removing it, once out you will see the solenoid spindle and be able to check the lower rod section which actually fits in the steering column to lock it. Mine had a small burr which I cleaned and then i replaced the cover holding it in place by two large cable ties, if it sticks again I can cut the ties and sort the unit without drama the outer cover is a quick remove just undo the plastic steering column screws and your there.
    Hope this helps Gippy

  10. #10
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    Removing electronics cover

    Quote Originally Posted by Gippslander View Post
    The pins that hold the cover for the steering lock are roll pins I don know if you can find something to insert inside the pins and remove them something similar to an easy out maybe I couldn’t so I managed to drill the bottom three out, then I levered the cover up and slid it down away from the top pins.The lock mechanism is located in place by the outer cover so be careful removing it, once out you will see the solenoid spindle and be able to check the lower rod section which actually fits in the steering column to lock it. Mine had a small burr which I cleaned and then i replaced the cover holding it in place by two large cable ties, if it sticks again I can cut the ties and sort the unit without drama the outer cover is a quick remove just undo the plastic steering column screws and your there.
    Hope this helps Gippy
    Gippslander: I had actually removed the cover before I saw your note. I did get two pins out with an "easy out" but they rounded off the easy out as they are hardened but got it off OK using a cobalt drill to drill out the remaining pins. I then tapped holes at 4mm (.7 pitch) and am making screws with ends reduced to 3mm to fit in the cover "pockets"
    Interesting that you say that the spindle of the solenoid had a burr on the end of it. The end of the spindle is actually encased in plastic. I find it difficult to understand that many go about drilling a hole to squirt wd40 thus introducing drill swarf in to the electronics area .
    Magnetic switch.jpg
    So some obvious difference there

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