I have a 7-pin round to 7-pin flat adaptor - plugs into the black round socket. Mine doesn't have the white socket..
So I’ve just purchased my first L322 2011 TDV8.
I'm going to be doing some normal 2T trailer towing.
The car comes with the standard tow bits and electrics but no tow tongue.
I saw from other posts that the Hayman Reese TBM21181 is the right one to get. So I’ll go get one if this is right.
As for electrics though, it has the standard LR fittings - two round sockets, one black and one white.
So, living here in Australia, how do we best get a 7-pin flat socket?
Lastly I see a lot of references around adding resistors to handle LED trailer lights. Can anyone give me a summary on what I need to do? (I haven’t got the trailer yet but I believe it’ll come with LED’s).
I have a 7-pin round to 7-pin flat adaptor - plugs into the black round socket. Mine doesn't have the white socket..
Last edited by p38arover; 12th February 2020 at 09:29 AM.
Ron B.
VK2OTC
2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
2007 Yamaha XJR1300
Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA
RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever
I changed my van and box trailer to use the large round plugs with their large pins after having problems with the small pins retaining good contact on previous vehicles.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Mine also came with the two sockets. The tongue is solid because of the length, so I am told.
Takb
I trust you searched all the hidy holes in the boot and the spare wheel area for a tongue ? Strange it wasn't with the car given it's fully wired for towing ?
Laurie
Actually I haven’t picked up the car yet after buying it so there’s still a chance it’s there.
although I lifted the rear floor and didn’t notice it when I test drove.
I think all L322’s came with tow bar and wiring when new but not necessarily the tongue.
So I’m just preparing myself for when I pick it up (moving house so need to tow pretty soon after) and asking questions I hadn’t found answers to yet
Thanks for all the replies. I have a much clearer picture now. I also did a little more research.
Looks like the black socket on the back of the car is a standard 7 pin large round. So can use that kind of connector or converter to whatever you need. The white connector is the standard 12 pin (S12) round socket. Some people on Disco forums convert the white socket to 7 pin flat plus Anderson sockets.
Anderson plug to white trailer socket.
For the tow tongue, as recommended by many, the Hayman Reece TBM21181 works. Seems that the tow bar on the L322 is so recessed under the car that it needs a tow tongue that’s long. Also there can be some height challenge.
Found some more info in the Hayman Reece catalog. https://www.haymanreese.com.au/downl...V2018-9_LR.pdf
The TBM21181, being 50mmx50mm solid, has a load rating of 3500kg.
Now the key part...This Tongue is the longest they make at 305mm. So that’s the crucial measurement to ensure it clears the cars bumper bar.
Cost is $200 at Supercheap autos and $220 at other retailers.
Hayman Reece also have TBM21171 which is a hollow 50mmx50mm that’s also 305mm long. That’s rated for 2250kg and is $113 at Supercheap. So that’s a cheaper option for those not towing the heaviest loads.
I also see TBM21226 which is hollow, 2250kg, 305mm complete with interlock tow ball (only 1 spanner required to tighten). Only found these guys with it for $126.
Towballs & Mounts - Towing - Racks, Towbars & Accessories
Finally there’s the LED light issue. If you experience this issue there appears to be two commercial options available:
Labtronx Pulse Busta at $319 for kit suitable for L322 (Busta4.2-A)
PulseBusta Mk3
And Linear Electronic Design who have a few different connectivity options for $265.
Buy Now: Linear Electronic Design
I bought my MY10 in 2016, and whereas it had the bar/cross member that attaches to the chassis to hold the tongue, it had no tongue and no electrics - which I added.
(The bonus for me was the electrics were only a couple of hundred $'s fitted (the cross member/bar is approx. $1000); but it meant the car had almost likely never towed and therefore the gearbox probably not really worked hard. This was somewhat confirmed when I had the gearbox oil and pan changed a month or so later, and they reported the outgoing oil was very good for age.)
I went with the Linear LED adapter.
If it doesn’t have the chassis attachment for a tow receiver I would call around a few wreckers that do LRs.
L322 tdv8 poverty pack - wow
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 49-107 (probably selling) turbo, p/steer, RFSV front axle/trutrack, HF, gullwing windows, double jerrys etc.
Perentie 110 wagon ARN 48-699 another project
Track Trailer ARN 200-117
REMLR # 137
Like Graeme I swapped my trailers to the large round when I got my L322 - and found the electric brakes work much better. Couple year previous i had a small plug start to melt while towing a 3 axle trailer. The large round has much bigger pins. Adapters just add another possible failure point, and plugs/sockets are the most common failure points in trailer lighting - you now have 2 sockets and 2 plugs instead of 1&1.
And I made my own LED thingo... You may not need one, my dad's 2011 D4 doesn't.
L322 3.6TDv8 Lux
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