Got it fixed.
Just knocked fuel return line off top of diesel cooler somehow.
Luckily didn't need to remove plenum. Just undid bolts and lifted it enough to push clip back on with screwdriver.
Printable View
Got it fixed.
Just knocked fuel return line off top of diesel cooler somehow.
Luckily didn't need to remove plenum. Just undid bolts and lifted it enough to push clip back on with screwdriver.
Check all the fuel pipes to the injectors and any other connections in the fuel system.Quote:
Originally Posted by jackiechan
can I ask where did you get your intake covers ?Quote:
Originally Posted by haydent
also aftermarket or LR ?
Anyone used aftermarket one - want some opinions form people who fit aftermarket
I actually just reused my covers, in hindsight ive had thoughts that i should have replaced them with all the work involved to take them off and on, but worried being cheap and putting aftermarket one on might be worse than what i had, I would have considered getting them off aliexpress,
I actually have an update to this thread. since doing this job, ive had a slowly worsening problem of diesel smell when stopping or slowly moving after driving for a while. I identified that it was coming out of the engine bay near the firewall and going into the cabin air intake at base of windscreen. When driving you dont smell it as it gets carried away too much.
I had put my injector pipe guards back on a few weeks after being happy with first doing the job, which made it hard to see what was going on, so just put it off, hoping it would go away.
Had a big tripped planned so thought better investigate, I had a leaking injector seal and about 4 of the bolts on the passenger valve cover were finger loose and you could hear the air escaping...
All this despite using new seals, and and for the valve cover bolts actually over torquing them to about 14n rather than 10n and checking them some weeks after the initial job.
As you do i was finding this all out the day before leaving.
Once I got the cover off the passenger side, (i could smell it worst on that side so started there) there was all this hard black gunk around one of the injectors, at first thought it might have been a cracked cover, but worked out is was the injector not sealing properly. I couldnt get it out though (i didnt have a puller, the lr factory one you can get off ebay china for like $40 turns out), i could turn it a bit but thats all, and was worried i could be just about to break something and make the car immobile.... so i just tightened it up hoping id reseated and torqued it enough to seal again.
So we left on trip with big caravan got about 10km and checked under bonnet, could hear loud air escaping noise in time with a cylinder, so now it had gotten worse, as could never hear the air escaping from the injector.
So turned back and had another go at removing the injector, this time with the extra heat and pressure of the caravan and me loosening it the day before and spraying wd40 around it, it must have loosened up all the gunk that was sticking it. I got it out , what a relief .
It was a mess, but no damage, dropped some tools and the seal washer a few times in the engine bay which is mandatory and takes up half the job time, but cleaned it all up with rotary tool wire brush, amazingly the copper washer looked fine despite being run for a year with combustion gasses leaking past it. Hand cleaned the hole and seat with the same wire brush but taped to a screw driver.
I put it all back together and its been fine so far, I tempted to never put those covers back on, as they really are a barrier to monitoring and diagnosing potential engine troubles early,
But why didnt it seal properly the first time ? I thought id done everything by the manual, but looking again at the steps to fix this one injector I may not have....
I will post my finding in the next post, just running out of time now
Attachment 190501
Ok, so my first hints to this possibly cause was the when refitting the cleaned injector it just didnt feel like there was much tension on the injector. This made me notice the first step in the manual for refitting that id glossed over:
Install a new fuel injector clamp.
Not sure why I hadnt heard about this before, I guess because LR are often a bit overzealous when it comes to not reusing some parts which is nice and all when you have the replacements on the shelf, but when they have to come from england it make you rethink.
So looking at the clamp (the loose metal bracket on injector that the 2 bolts go through) I figured i could just take it off the injector, put it in the vice and give it a few taps with the hammer to increase the curve on it so more tension is applied to the injector when tensioned up.
The clamps are not listed individually in the LR parts cat, so likely you'd have to buy the LR002491 (part varies per cylinder) kit with injector pipe, clamp, washer and return clip, x8, its going to add up compared to just washers and a few spare clips which can be ordered separately.
Doing it again, I still wouldnt replace the clamps, but id have a closer look at the curve on each and compare them against each other, and maybe give each a little tap, as it would seem LR think they can straighten over time and loose the required tension intended, you can feel when doing up the bolts when it starts to apply the load on the injector, and when i noticed the problem with mine it seemed like there was barely any bolt thread left after this point, but after the bending it felt much better.
