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Well done cmdigger. Whatever works. They are so much nicer when they are not leaking oil everywhere. I have been monitoring the oil stains in the drive but with nothing fresh I haven’t bothered to lift the bonnet. I didn’t find the engine mounts to be the worse part of the job. Well done.
If someone else has a leaking manifolf gasket, it might pay to do this in the first instance ! Mine had a hairline crack so it needed to be replaced [bigsad]
This is a reply I had when talking to a German owner on Ffrr.
'I torqued the bolts to spec (25NM - didn't have a torque wrench that goes that low, so I estimated "finger-tight" + 90 degrees to do the job - that's at least how I torque down spark plugs in my old Merc.
Long story short: It seems like the problem has been solved. No more smoke, no oil in the driveway. Drove 400km Autobahn since...
Long-term fix to be validated. I will keep you updated.
Laurie
after noticing fresh oil stains under our 120km l320 tdv8 and taking the bottom panels off and degreasing it and still not being able to see where it was coming from, i thought what the heck ill google it, even though what could be more broad than, land rover oil leak... but i found this thread !
and what do you know it looks like i have the same problem on both sides, will try checking the torque and then order new seals.
thanks for all the comments everyone !
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but those damn "fuel line shields" have to pull everything off to get them off just to get a look at the actual engine.
what do you think they really do ?? issues with not using them ??
I believe it is only 10NMQuote:
Originally Posted by Laurie
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last post for the night, how the heck do you get and swing a torque wrench on these back bolt, i ground down a 10mm 1/4" socket and have a 1/4" torque wrench but no room to swing if i even can get it on as theres body covering it...
speaking of tools, i found repco sell a 1/4" 10mm long socket, which would be needed to get onto the bolts that double as attachment points for the heat shield.
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3/8" flexible socket setup ! Just carefully check the intake manifold, as they are prone to cracking from age or high mileage. After the RH manifold cracked on mine I replaced both, not cheap during Covid, but worth the piece of mind, as it initially goes into restricted mode, you can reset it and it will run as long as you are gentle with the boost. We use our big girl for trips mainly, so in the end it was a no brainer. As you are finding out it is a bugger of a job and even more so if you get a stuck injector. On reassembly replace all fuel return line "O" rings, with Viton ones if available. You don't want finish the job just to find you have a minor leak [bigwhistle]
Laurie
How did you go Haydent? I bought a 1/4 inch socket set from Repco to add to the 3/8 socket set from repco and the 1/2 inch socket set from Repco. Between three sets of socket sets and a mig welder I could make p something to fit a bolt. In relation to the fuel line shields I haven't bothered fitting them back on so I could get better visibility to the engine. Now that it is done and probably travelled another 50K I might get it done on a rainy day.............. maybe.
After the initial panick about the low oil level and amount on the engine, I topped it up and monitored it and its not loosing oil as fast as I first feared.
I have the parts from UK and bought a crowfoot spanner set on sale at sca
Just waiting for good time to do it and will post back here
Bloody good work guys! I have just started on my tdv8 . Leaking oil and diesel all over the places everyone mentioned. Goes into limp/restricted mode same spot every morning, I noticed one of the O rings was missing from the egr pipe so hopping that’s the issue there not a cracked manifold! The engine mounts look like a nightmare so will definitely take the top of the injector and see how that goes:)
