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Get yourself a "dork torch"Quote:
The biggest issue I am finding with this job and working on this car is trying to see
Ie a headlamp like an expensive Petzl or like me a cheap Aldi one. You need one with the ability to hinge up or down so you can point it where you are looking. Then if you can see the bolt you can light it up.
Regards PhilipA
Mick
Your mailbox is full and won’t accept any more messages. I am curious how you attacked the vertical bolt on the heat shield at the back of the right hand side bank. It looks to be 8mm where everything else is 10mm. Funnily enough the pipe blocking access to this bolt is the breather I had trouble with when doing the turbo! I am struggling to get a spanner or socket on it.
I have completed the drivers side cover but still need to reinstall the injectors and Leak off pipes and engine mounts before moving on to the other side. Mick has done a marvelous job of writing up this procedure and when I look at the pics he has taken I can appreciate the effort to take them! A Couple of things I learnt Along the way to add to this write up.
There are only two engine mount bolts, the way I read the original post I thought there was three.
The bolt at the back of the Drivers side bank that I was struggling with is listed as a heat shield but is a bracket and has a 10mm nut on the valve cover and an 8mm bolt on the vertical. to get to this I must of been over thinking it
and I was able to reach in from the back and get it with a short 8mm spanner.
I could not get the Valve cover off and RAVE talks about taking the brake vacuum pump out. I didn't do this and tried to zoom in on some of the pics that is in the write up. I was able to release the vacuum hose from it and then
using two screwdrivers release the right angle connector from the pump which allowed me to get the cover out. I suspect Mick may of done the same.
The clips for the leak off pipes are a fair pain and you can only purchase them in a kit from landrover which includes the high pressure lines. I think they were around $160 or $180 or something ridiculous and when you need 8 of them is an expensive exercise. A bit of searching reveals that a Jag Clip might be the same. Once I get them from the Postoffice I will confirm the part number for future reference. The local diesel mechanic also had them in stock for around $4.00 ea. I have only so far got a 50% recovery rate of them as they do ping off into the unknown on release. I tried to catch them with a magnet but to no avail.
I will hopefully get back to it a few nights this week and finish the Drivers side ready to move onto the Passenger side. apparently the easier side to do.
I can confirm that the jaguar clips are the same. Thank Mario @ Roverlord https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ceccb79096.jpg
Nothing worse when reading a thread and the problem is not solved or they never come back to update the thread and tell everyone. So in the interest of not being that guy.
Got the L322 back on the road. It is not a particularly hard job but you do need to have some mechanical aptitude. It is however a big job to do with many nuts and bolts to remove as well as electrical connections.
Attachment 165249
This was the best tool to own and allowed me to make other tools to help the make the job easier.
Attachment 165250Attachment 165251
The home made crows foot spanner worked a treat as did the spanners at different angles.
I broke this job down to 3 components, one being the plenum chamber and wiring harness, two being the RHS Valve cover and the three being the LHS valve cover. All up I probably spent three days on it, but spread over a few weeks.
The drivers side valve cover is definetley a bit harder for a number of reasons. The ABS module is in the way. Even if you undo the two bolts and one nut that holds the it in place you cannot move it much. It probably helped a little bit and I would probably do the same again. The two engine mount bolts on that side are not the easiest to get out or put back in. I found that I could use a screw driver from underneath to help move the engine mount to align the holes. Obviously with the weight of the engine sitting on the jack allowing the mount to move a bit. having to take off the hard lines from the injector to the fuel rail for number 3 and four injector was a pain and not the easiest to get the spanners on.
The Passenger side went by pretty quick with easy access to everything and was uneventful. NOTE, you only need to do undo one bolt on the engine mount which is the 18mm one Mick refers to in the original post and is easy to get to. There is also a sneaky 18th bolt on this cover just near the 5th injector
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I found the new seals to be tight to start on the injector and Mick confirmed that this would be the case. I renewed the Rubber washers on the leak down pipes and the clips. I thought this would be a frustrating task to put them back on but it was easy.
The plenum chamber even went on fairly simply with no major issues and connect not only the wiring harness and but also where they clip over rails, in holes etc.
Attachment 165254
The vents and bulk heads back in and the cover and now we are starting to look pretty good.
Attachment 165255
With the fuel lines being off the fuel pump was cycled a few times to prime it and it fired into life pretty quickly. I ran the OBD over it and cleared any faults.
I gave it a wash and a degrease and see how we go.
Attachment 165256Attachment 165257Attachment 165258
I was going to put it all back together next weekend but my wife has to go to the dentist today in Melbourne and didn't want to take my car, so the pressure was on to finish it off. Not what I really wanted as I would of liked to keep it local for a whilst before a big trip just to check on it.
After doing about 60 km in it yesterday I had a good look for fuel leaks or oil leaks. It looks pretty good, until I got underneath it......... I suspect the oil return on the turbo is leaking and I was able to nip up the torque bolts in the short term. I will re-evaluate when/ If she gets back from town.
Big Thanks To Mick for the original write and being on call to answer any queries and thanks to Mario @ Roverlord for his help and expertise on parts. Glad this is behind me...... for now.
Well done. Big job. Thanks for the write up. I agree, a mig is a very handy tool to have.
the Mig is super handy. I did make another tool with a shallow socket welded on the end of a long screwdriver but it didn't help. I didn't really want to cut up good tools to make other ones but seem to have an abundance of old odd tools which are perfect for cutting and shutting!! I've had the mig for about a year now and it is starting to pay its way around the place. Ive made a few shed heaters, welded up chains and gates, tools, garden edging, Hose clamps for the neighbors bobcat and trailer repairs. The other neighbors want me to weld up some front gates for their place. They always have people tearing through their property as Google says their driveway is the main road. Try getting google to change that!!
Well my wife came back from Melbourne last night. 7 hr return trip with no option to stay anywhere. I spoke to the Covid hotline and told them the story and asked if she could stay with my stepmother in town. They went away and had a natter and it would basically come down to if she got picked up it would depend how the copper interpreted the law and she would risk a $5K fine as well as the stepmother copping one as well. Sort of forces people to push themselves to drive tired. As far as we know the L322 performed faultlessly but I haven't checked it over yet. I suspect I will be replacing the oil return off the turbo but I will see. From memory I have to remove the starter motor and the Cat. Sounds like a nightmare but will be the easiest job I have ever done on this car if that is all it is!! I gotta say the wife was so happy to be travelling in style again! Fingers crossed
If you think the turbo drain pipe is restricted, you could try a oil flush like liquimoly
Liquid-Moly Engine Oil Flush Plus 300mL - Liquid-Moly | Repco Australia
If you have agent nearby this stuff is fantastic, but expensive initially [bigwhistle] for the initial dose as you will have to use about 125ml $53 plus a complete oil change with a cheap oil ($70) and run for 30 mins, drain then replace filters and oil as normal. Then afterwards all you need is around 25ml $6 and run engine for 30 mins before your next oil change. It's eye opening how much gunk comes out, and yes the engine does run better.
Flushing Oil Concentrate - Cost Effective Maintenance
Laurie
Having read this thread I found it extremely useful as I’ve just completed mine (replaced egr valves while I was in there as well). Anyway I thought I might add you don’t need to undo engine mounts to get the back injectors out (I know some will say this is wrong but it all worked out for me). If you take out the retaining bolts in the injector and remove the fuel lines then wiggle the injector until it’s basically free and lifts out. Don’t lift it out though, replace the 2 retaining bolts finger tight and using a 25m spanner you can undo the top of the injector. You literally only need to crack it 1/2 a turn and you’ll be able to undo it by hand, then once undone you can remove the top of the injector (the electrical connector part) then take out the retaining bolts and your then able to remove the injectors closet to the firewall on both banks without having to undo engine mount. I’ll be honest I wasn’t sure if this would work as I was worried once I put the injector back together that it would leak or not work. So I had a stuff it moment and thought I’d give it bash. Well 600 miles later the car is running as sweet as ever no leaks etc. My old girl works for it’s living as it’s constantly towing diggers, dumpers and other machinery. 9 times out of 10 it’s dragging in excess of 3 tons. After taking a machine to a client 230 miles away then home again and just some running around town I decided to take the cover plates of again and check everything over and it’s nice and perfectly dry so happy days.
Again I’m not saying this is the correct process (as I’m guessing it really isn’t) but just thought I would share this as it worked ok for me.
