Thread: Gearbox getting hot...

Originally Posted by irubix

Awesome mate!

What year is yours? The Android headunit replacement ive been looking at for a while but have an ipad holder in there, i have an 05 so have the MOST fibre system so i need to bits and pieces to support the fibre loop.

Care to share some piccies of the headunit with some details?

This is what I've done... Dash since removed again because I'm putting fabric tape on any surface that can move or squeek...

I got the headunit plus accessories from AliExpress... Owtosin is the guy, seems quite helpful and willing to help sort out understanding and issues, etc... Which is nice.

Managed to source the cigarette lighter bit from Amazon... Was $20 US?? It has RCA for sound and video from 3.5mm socket.

Got a Resler adaptor and the iBus app... Where the CD changer was wired, it has kbus and power for the Resler adaptor and the changer also had low level twisted pair, so I soldered some RCAs onto that and used the wiring to the boot... I rewired a bit in the boot (put old cd changer low level twisted pair directly to the DSP itself...)

It'll be different wiring for you with MOST I assume, but this was fairly plug and play, I also put DAB in and put the device where the stacker used to be with spare USB sockets just in case.

Wrapped all harnesses in cloth tape (cheap as on eBay) and it's very satisfying.

Now I need to run:

Antenna cable to the boot
RCA for reversing camera to the boot
Cable for stock GPS antenna to the boot (as I want to use the stock antenna as apparently it's good!)

I'm hoping I can use packing strips to lead the wires through the interior without pulling seat, etc... But if I need to, I will.

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Last issue I have now...

Random right front wheel abs sensor issues going open circuit... It might be the ABS module, but it has been rebuilt before apparently (receipts!)...and I've since switched for a new eurospare sensor...and it's still doing it, sigh. Next is to swap left/right ones and see what happens... annoying!

Channeling cable/wiring from driver side to boot is pretty easy in L322.

From memory pull the door seal away near the bonnet release. Pull the bonnet release leaver, hold, and the A pillar kick panel should come away. The cavity underneath carries through to door sills.

The driver side door sill clips off fairly easily to reveal a cavity for oem wiring loom going from front to back. Rear driver side door sill clips off the same. The wiring continues up to driver side boot area. If you need to reach to passenger side, there is a sill cavity under cargo door sill area.

Just had another look, seem like you don’t need to remove door seal to remove a pillar kick panel.

Originally Posted by rar110

Channeling cable/wiring from driver side to boot is pretty easy in L322.

From memory pull the door seal away near the bonnet release. Pull the bonnet release leaver, hold, and the A pillar kick panel should come away. The cavity underneath carries through to door sills.

The driver side door sill clips off fairly easily to reveal a cavity for oem wiring loom going from front to back. Rear driver side door sill clips off the same. The wiring continues up to driver side boot area. If you need to reach to passenger side, there is a sill cavity under cargo door sill area.

Ta, the plates come off easily, but on the passenger side at least the plastic over the channel is screwed down in lots of places... I'll have to pull it apart and see how far i get!

Mine is MY08 so may be slightly different.

With sill plates off I managed to run it through using a packing strap...it's tight but there's a lot of foam under the floor... It actually runs under the passenger seat from about 3/4 along the rail, you can go "around" the standoff for the rear bolt on the seat... Then push it under the foam once you've pulled it out the back sill area. Managed to get the side panel lifted mostly off from the bottom (I assume someone has been in there before!) With enough room to work and lead through past the sub...

Now have to finish the rest of it!

All wired and working now!

Ran it for about 1.5hrs today of varying driving and although it's cold today (24 deg), the temp of car and gearbox was perfect. Gearbox got to 103 driving out of Galston Gorge and quickly went back to a stable 100.

Engine was ~90 deg (I think thermostat may be stuck open or something) and the radiator outlet temp was ~66 deg even at the highest load, so it's working really well.

Reversing camera in and mounted under the rear bumper and it's a good location, not perfect, but good. It was driving really nice today too, no bongs from the silly right front wheel abs sensor either.

Snatch strap kit arrived today so I'm ready for some off-road!

Next "maintenance" items:
Got a fuel pump (genuine bosch)
Ignition switch (genuine).

Both were a good price and rather than being stranded one day, I'll preemptively replace them, maybe these holidays.

Because I like talking to myself (less arguments that way), I've run it up to Ourimbah (same run it got very hot in last time) after general Sydney driving... Did about 30mins on the rougher fire roads and went up the "training area" in the forest the "easy" way... Next time I'll try the ruts .

This time, gearbox stayed at 100 the entire time except for one time it got to 103 (which was slow running up a long steep hill)... So I'm very happy now.

But....

Now I've noticed my occasional under floor vibration has definitely gotten worse and is occuring a lot more. I think I'll look to get a go pro under the car and see if I can check what is vibrating... (I bet it's the tailshaft uni... Local place said they can swap the joint for about 275 if I bring in the half shaft...)