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Thread: How long before your battery goes flat?

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    How long before your battery goes flat?

    My L322 has always been one for discharging the battery quickly if not kept charged. I’m talking less than a week. I have a BM2 battery monitor on it and on our Forester and the Forester’s discharge curve is almost flat, not so the Rangie.

    I guess I’ll have start looking at battery drain when the vehicle is idle.

    Does anyone else have this issue? I think the car’s going to sleep OK. Maybe something is waking it up, e.g., local radio transmissions.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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    Hi Ron, when I had my L322, it did not get much use and the cranking battery never lasted as much as 2 week before the battery was too low to start the motor, and I had a dual battery setup.

    The best way to get the longest time out of your battery, is to do a regular overnight charge with a battery charger. and this is regardless of whether you drive your L322 or not.

    Only a battery charge will keep the battery in good condition and the better the condition, the longer it takes to discharge.

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    Mine discharges at a rate I'm not happy with, 12.45v down to 12.2v over ~20 hours and that is with new batteries in a dual battery setup.

    Have thrown a portable jump pack in the boot to save the embarrassment of calling RACV to the airport to give you a jump when you come back from holiday. Again.

    How does this discharge rate compare to your experience?

    rob

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    Yeah even with 2x 110ah mine drops down over a week. I keep it perm on a charger as its my second vehicle. Probably get a little solar panel soon and leave it connected.
    05 L322 Range Rover | BMW M62 4.4 | Cairns Blue
    07 Lexus GS450h | 2GR-FSE Hybrid | Blue Onyx Pearl

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    Quote Originally Posted by RMMMM View Post
    Mine discharges at a rate I'm not happy with, 12.45v down to 12.2v over ~20 hours and that is with new batteries in a dual battery setup.

    Have thrown a portable jump pack in the boot to save the embarrassment of calling RACV to the airport to give you a jump when you come back from holiday. Again.

    How does this discharge rate compare to your experience?

    rob
    Is it a Traxide dual battery set up?
    If so you could put a switch in the Negative wire from the relay/Module so you can turn it off and this will isolate the batteries.
    This will not only reduce the current from the relay,but also separate the batteries and help locate the problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Is it a Traxide dual battery set up?
    If so you could put a switch in the Negative wire from the relay/Module so you can turn it off and this will isolate the batteries.
    This will not only reduce the current from the relay,but also separate the batteries and help locate the problem.
    Couple of questions arising?

    I have the same problem (yes Traxide with 2 under-bonnet batteries)

    1 - presumably basically the same electrical system as my MY16 D4?

    2 - how difficult/warranted to put the switch in the cab to overcome having to lift the bonnet to activate each time?
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Couple of questions arising?

    I have the same problem (yes Traxide with 2 under-bonnet batteries)

    1 - presumably basically the same electrical system as my MY16 D4?

    2 - how difficult/warranted to put the switch in the cab to overcome having to lift the bonnet to activate each time?
    A simple fix for the older isolators is to fit a relay in the engine bay, near the isolator.

    Wire the coil of the isolator so that one coil contact goes to an ignition circuit, and the other goes to earth.

    Then wire the Isolators thin earth through the main contacts of the relay, so that the earth is connected while the motor is running and is disconnected when the motor is off.

    If you want too, you can wire a small switch across the main contacts of the relay so you can bypass the relay when on a trip.

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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Couple of questions arising?

    I have the same problem (yes Traxide with 2 under-bonnet batteries)

    1 - presumably basically the same electrical system as my MY16 D4?

    2 - how difficult/warranted to put the switch in the cab to overcome having to lift the bonnet to activate each time?

    Easy just run a twin cable to switch in cab,then back to earth wire on relay.Hardest part is probably getting it through the firewall,others may know an easy way.
    Or do as Tim says above,but i like to keep things simple and i can turn it on and off when ever i want to.

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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post
    A simple fix for the older isolators is to fit a relay in the engine bay, near the isolator.

    Wire the coil of the isolator so that one coil contact goes to an ignition circuit, and the other goes to earth.

    Then wire the Isolators thin earth through the main contacts of the relay, so that the earth is connected while the motor is running and is disconnected when the motor is off.

    If you want too, you can wire a small switch across the main contacts of the relay so you can bypass the relay when on a trip.

    Thanks Tim.

    Sorry, I've high-jacked the thread, but hopefully of interest to others with similar problems.

    1 - So I guess my about 2 year old SC80 + IN CAB is considered an older isolator?

    2 - I was particularly interested in the possibility of an in cab over-ride switch because where I park its a pain to get to open and close the bonnet.
    D4 MY16 TDV6 - Cambo towing magic, Traxide Batteries, X Lifter, GAP ID Tool, Snorkel, Mitch Hitch, Clearview Mirrors, F&R Dashcams, CB
    RRC MY95 LSE Vogue Softdash "Bessie" with MY99 TD5 and 4HP24 transplants
    SADLY SOLD MY04 D2a TD5 auto and MY10 D4 2.7 both with lots of goodies

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by gavinwibrow View Post
    Thanks Tim.

    Sorry, I've high-jacked the thread, but hopefully of interest to others with similar problems.

    1 - So I guess my about 2 year old SC80 + IN CAB is considered an older isolator?

    2 - I was particularly interested in the possibility of an in cab over-ride switch because where I park its a pain to get to open and close the bonnet.
    No that is the newest version and can be controlled by the toggle switch on the In-Cab Module.

    This is the very reason the In-Cab module was added to the Traxide Isolators.

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