In some ways thats fine if the vehicle isnt too old, but if you do that with an older one . . .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/238.jpg
Printable View
In some ways thats fine if the vehicle isnt too old, but if you do that with an older one . . .
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...017/10/238.jpg
The wheel rate with independent is constant, excluding any anti-roll bar effects or other contrivances.
The wheel rate with a solid axle changes depending on whether only one wheel is moving by itself, or the wheels are moving in different directions to each other, or if both are moving upwards or downwards at the same time.
Anti-roll bars only affect the wheel rate when both wheels arent moving in the same direction at the same time and speed. Which is most of the time but not all.
Fully independent with bose full active would be the ultimate, but dont expect them to answer your calls until you put a massive wad in their bank account (?).
Rover v8
R380
Lt 230
Maxi drive diffs
Standard springs and shocks
chippa’s Rangie 2 obc’s
Rover v8
R380
Lt 230
Maxi diffs
Yes not stock, but pretty standard
That’s my point to those bagging RRC
As some have already noted good off road doesn’t seem to sell but flash does.
I’ll just drive everywhere on this flat earth with my rv8 and locked live axles, when it’s hot I’ll wind down the window
Forgive my ignorance, but wasn't one of the ideas behind Traction Control, that you didn't need massive wheel travel anymore?
The idea of huge amounts of wheel articulation was to maintain sufficient weight on the wheel to maintain some traction. ETC would seem to negate that need, would it not?
All true Pat, except we all know that the newer and more fancy the Landy, the less likely it is that a local mechanic will be able to / want to help.
But then I guess whoever can afford to take a $100,000 D5 across the country, can also afford to upgrade their vehicle before warranty runs out ...because the back to city base breakdown repair is becoming the only viable option in remote areas for newer vehicles. I'd hate to think what a flat-bed tow from somewhere in the Pilbara or the Gibson, to Perth would cost!
Traction control is a brilliant design concept, using the ABS sensors it senses when a wheel loses traction an applies the brakes to it so that the opposite wheel gains traction (in an opened diff vehicle). A very cheap electronic alternative to an LSD/locker whilst retaining the benefits of an open diff. But it does have its downside. Imagine going up a steep loose terrain slope in an opened diff LR with TC. As the wheels lift or spin the brakes are applied which is the last thing you need to maintain momentum, you will ultimately grind to a halt. There is absolutely NO equal to keeping all four wheels on the ground in off road driving, sure all sorts of fancy electronics can try to compensate but in the end they WILL fail with continual use and you're left with 'failure to proceed'. This is where the RRC absolutely shines with its open diffs and superb suspension travel.
Having said that, on my 2008 crossing of the Simpson Desert (in a D2a) I found that TC was working flat out in the afternoons. This was because the standard factory shocks had 'lost the plot' by lunchtime causing wheel lift (axle tramp) which would normally leave one 'high and dry' but the TC came to the rescue to compensate allowing forward momentum to be maintained :) With coil springs (which have absolutely zero natural dampening when compared to leaf springs) when you lose a shocker you lose drive on that axle unless you have TC (or a LSD/locker) to compensate. :)
Deano :)
Yeah, traction control can be great in slow grippy rocky locations, wheel lift or hard base under mud. ...but I've been on a very slippery hill in my puma, traction control working crazy overtime on all four wheels, braking and actually preventing progress up the hill. Might have been better with just two open diffs and at least two wheels scrabbling for traction.