Thread: Rear end clunk

I’m thinking suspension. It should be under warranty still. I would get JLRA to look at it ASAP.

Something easy to check (but pretty unlikely) is loose wheel nuts. I’ve had the experience of the 110 going in for work and the shop forgetting to tighten a wheel’s nuts. A couple of weeks later they had all loosened off and the wheel came off.

One of my rear shocks had gone at 50k kms. Sounded similar to your description but when going over bumps. Both rears replaced under warranty.
Tony

It could actually be the callibration of the transfer case causing it. It was a fault picked up by LR and listed on Topix for the L405 and I think someone also had the problem on a D4. It is usually solved by changing the transfer case oil and then recallibrating the transfer case. The dealer would need to do it but it might be hard for them to diagnose.

The transfer case tends to grab a bit (sort of locked up for a short time), which means that when relative movement is required between front and rear while turning a corner, for instance, it needs to inlock and does this a bit violently since it has wrongly locked, so there is a clunk usually from the rear diff due to the sudden shock. I thought my L405 had stripped rear diff teeth when I got it second hand, but it was just the transfer case issue and the above treatment fixed it. If they can diagnose it properly it will be a warranty fix. With mine it happened worst when accelerating around a slow speed right hand 90 degree corner (such as coming out of a drive way or at a T junction).

You can also try driving in sand on a beach for few minutes. If there are a few clunks from the rear when you drive back onto the bitumen until the transfer case properly unlocks, it will be the transfer case issue for sure. That was the other symptom with mine.

Just something else to look at if diff issues are ruled out and if you can convince the dealer to check for that. The cure is on Topix for them to follow if it is the TC calibration.

So after having the car for a day LR say its the tyres (Pirelli Scorpion all terrain plus 275/55R20) causing the rear diff to lock on tight 90° corners. These tyres are 25mm wider and 22mm bigger in diameter than the OEM 255/55R20.

I find this a little strange as the tyres have been on for a year and 32k but maybe they've reached a point of wear to cause this? They look almost brand new to me.

LR said they considered "calibrating" the diff (how is this done?) to the tyres but decided not to as it would need to be undone if/when I changed tyres.

The wash up was that LR said its the tyres and not to worry about it. So I won't.

Dear friend.

what was the solution eventually? did you manage to solve the problem?

Originally Posted by WhiteD3

I'm a mechanical numpty so please excuse the "clunk" description.

When accelerating away from a standing start (or near to) into a 90 deg turn (L or R) I hear and feel a clunk from the rear end. Think of exiting a driveway. The clunk is not loud or harsh and feels like I've run over a small rock or some such. Otherwise the car makes no noise from the rear end at any other time.

Diff issue?

MY18 D5 SD4 with no eDiff and 46k on it.

Cheers.

Mark

IK,

No solution. LR said they could reset the diff for the new tyres but that would mean it would need resetting again when those tyres are replaced. I've since changed to Yokohama Geolandar CV G058 255/55 which are the same size as the original OEM and while the problem has lessened, its still there.

Reset the diff? About the only thing that an be done to an open diff is to set up the CW&P backlash properly and no wheel or tyre size will affect that!

Have you checked that it's not an e-diff, assuming that you know what to look for?

No e-diff.