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Thread: DIY - Installing brake controller

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Cardup, West Aust
    Posts
    227

    DIY - Installing brake controller

    Installed my Redarc Tow-Pro Elite brake controller today. Thought I would create this DIY for everyone else.

    Installing the brake controller is fairly straightforward in the L494 compared to my previous installs on a D3 and D4. There is a factory plug to connect to, just a matter of getting the connections correct. The best way to hook into the factory plug is to get a Tekonsha 3035-P adapter. There are no other markings on the plug to be able to purchase it as a stand alone item.



    You only need the plug off the end, unless you are installing a Tekonsha unit of course.

    Step 1: remove the cover under the dash. Use a 7mm or 9/32 spanner/socket to remove the three screws. Pull the cover forward slightly and it should drop to the floor. If you don't want to disconnect the footwell light, it will sit alongside the transmission tunnel while connected.

    Step 2: locate the factory plug. It sits to the right hand side of the brake pedal. Warning: you will need to get flat on your back if you want to be able to eye-ball it. Helps if you place the seat as far back as possible.



    Steps 3: locate where you which to install the head unit. I wanted to install mine in the strip that runs across the top of the air vent between the instruments and the door, but you need to remove the instrument surround and was going to be a pain to remove and reinstall everything. I removed the side cover that sits on the end of the dash (use trim tools) and noted that there appeared to be some space on the other side of the vent.



    I then removed the two screws seen at the top of the side of the vent surround (white paint dabbed). Use a T20 driver to remove. The surround then pulls off. Will require a firm tug.

    I then removed the padded panel between the vent and the steering wheel. Again requires a firm tug to remove. I pulled the top first and then the bottom.



    Given the space to install the head unit and run the cable to the main unit, I decided to install to the side between the two tabs. This would also require some of the rib on the back of the panel to be removed.



    Step 4: installing the head unit required a slightly larger hole than the 10mm in the instructions. I also dremelled the 4 ribs surrounding the knob on the head unit (forgot to get a photo of this). This was done because of the thickness of the panel meant it would not sit proud enough to install the locking collar. You also need to trim the cover of the panel so that the head unit can sit correctly. I used some modelling knives I had sitting around.





    You then reinstall in reverse order. Install the lead from the head unit first and poke it through the opening, it will drop down into the footwell ready to be hooked up to the main unit.

    Step 5: time to prepare the plug. After a bit of double checking, here is the mapping for the plug.



    The Tekonsha plug requires the blue and black leads to be swapped around, and the white lead moved from one end to the other. Here is how it comes as supplied.



    And this is how it needs to look once changed.



    To move the leads, you need to remove the red wedge by pressing firmly with a pen or similar on the side of the plug on the red dot. Once that is removed, hold the tab on the open end of the relevant lead to the middle of the plug and pull the lead. You can see them in this shot sitting against the red wedge.



    I cut the plug with a little bit of lead for each wire from the Tekonsha connector, and then joined them to the leads from the Redarc connector. Join each lead to the same colour lead from the Redarc connector.

    Step 6: install the main unit to something solid under the dash. There is a reasonable amount of room above the the pedals, just a tight squeeze getting in there to have a look. I mounted my main unit on the steel bracket that ran from the firewall above the brake pedal. Used double sided tape and a couple of cable ties. This photo is looking straight up.



    Then install the cable from the head unit to the main unit, and the connector to the factory plug, and the job is done. Remember to reinstall the cover below the dash with the three 7mm screws.

    Here is the finished view of the controller on the dash.

    Cameron
    If in doubt, throttle out
    MY16 RRS SE SDv6
    MY16 Ranger XLT
    2008 911 GT2 - dream came true
    1976 Escort mk2 - race car

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2014
    Location
    SW Victoria
    Posts
    132
    Cameron,

    A good solution. Did you fit a diode in their somewhere, I understand that this is desirable.

    Cheers, Simmo

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Cardup, West Aust
    Posts
    227
    Quote Originally Posted by simmo1 View Post
    Cameron,

    A good solution. Did you fit a diode in their somewhere, I understand that this is desirable.

    Cheers, Simmo
    Simmo,

    No have not. Appears to be working fine at the moment. Found an old thread in a US forum and they appear not to use a diode either. I assume because the plug is part of the factory harness, it would be connected such that you wouldn't get the signal travelling back through the wiring.

    Time will tell i suppose. Travelling 1100kms tomorrow with the van, should be a good test.

    I will edit the original post early next week with the link to the photos in Flickr where they are clearer.
    Cameron
    If in doubt, throttle out
    MY16 RRS SE SDv6
    MY16 Ranger XLT
    2008 911 GT2 - dream came true
    1976 Escort mk2 - race car

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Cardup, West Aust
    Posts
    227

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    30

    Sucess, thanks. MY14.

    Just installed a Teksonsha P3 using the 3035-p adapter in my MY14 autobiography... These instructions were perfect... Plug and play.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Location
    Pimpama
    Posts
    4

    Easy as 123

    Thanks Cameron
    this is really an easy install
    Ray

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,354
    Just an update to this thread.

    I was concerned about whether power line to the brake controller was fused as I couldn't find any reference to it in the owner's manual.
    I downloaded the wiring diagram from topix and it shows that both the power input (30A) and the brake switch (5A) are fused.

    I was about to put a 30A reseting cct breaker in the power line so this saves some effort.

    I have attached the diagram for reference.
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Fuji white RRS L494 AB

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    5
    Does anyone know where the fuse is on the D5, that runs the constant 12 volts to the pre-wired loom for the trailer brakes? (The plug above the brake pedal).

    Thank you.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    NSW South West Slopes
    Posts
    10,321
    The D5 passenger compartment fuse panel has FL8, a 30A fusible link, for the brake controller module.
    MY12 RRV 4.4 TDV8 AB, +LLAMS, +e-diff, +ACC stop/go. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
    VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2018
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    6
    Hi All.
    Can anyone in the Brisbane area recommend a mobile installer to fit a Redarc Elite brake controller and run an Anderson plug for my new (to me) RRS?
    Cheers TIA Andrew

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