Not starting

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Originally Posted by Graeme

If the gearbox has a shift selector cable then it might be out of adjustment. Alternatively the shift lock-out switch might be faulty.
If you have a suitable diagnostic tool then you could monitor the state of the lock-out switch.

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Okay, I checked the voltage when it was in the garage and it showed around the 12.35 mark. I charged it up for a few hours and can you believe it, it started. I took it for a 10 minute drive, parked it at home, turned it off, and then it at least turned back on again. I've noticed one thing, there is quite the delay in when you hit the ignition button and when it starts. I have the same model car and mine is pretty much instantaneous. Anyway, it wouldn't surprise me if it doesn't go in the morning. I'm starting to rule out the loose wiring idea but it still could be the starter motor itself. I'm yet to check the starter motor relay but if that was cooked I'm not sure if it would start at all. I did use a diagnostic tool although a cheap one and used a free app to find the fault codes. Not one of them showed up as a gearbox issue (It did show up once on the dash as a fault and I just dismissed it the other day) . I might give it another go. Thanks again.

Okay, it wouldn't go first up in the morning but the battery did not lose any charge. What did happen was this rather big spark coming from the negative leads. The ensuing attempts gave one click at the most.

I played around with the battery connections and eventually got it going. I'm still not convinced that it is a loose connection only because apparently the starter relay can be stuffed and intermittently start your car.

I've done some enquiries and discovered that it's probably not the alternator as the voltage climbs when the car is turned on and it climbs a bit more when revved (not much though)

Anyway, I don't want this to be an ongoing saga but hopefully others down the track can learn from what transpires. Thanks

If you're seeing sparks then there is a connection issue, perhaps not with the connection to the battery post but with the cable into the connector.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

If you're seeing sparks then there is a connection issue, perhaps not with the connection to the battery post but with the cable into the connector.

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I'm starting to believe that Graeme. Ever since I tinkered with them as I turned both sides nearly 90 degrees, it's been going and now I hesitate to place the cover back on just in case it doesn't go.

Be very careful as sparks around batteries can be deadly. Your battery should have a breather tube which if connected reduces the risk of the battery exploding, but don't delay replacing the cable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Graeme

Be very careful as sparks around batteries can be deadly. Your battery should have a breather tube which if connected reduces the risk of the battery exploding, but don't delay replacing the cable.

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Very good advice Graeme. Appreciate it. Thanks

Could be an issue with your Auxiliary Battery if it has never been changed. Many don't know it is there. I changed one out on an Evoque a couple of years ago. You don't have to use a Land Rover specific battery just take the old one to Battery World and they can match it for you. I remember paying around $30



The 2013 Range Rover Evoque uses a specific AGM auxiliary battery (often with the part number LR024953) located behind the glove box, which is crucial for start-stop systems and other electrical functions when the engine is off. A common cause of a "Auxiliary Battery Malfunction" warning is a faulty or old auxiliary battery that needs replacement, a process that also requires the vehicle's Battery Management System (BMS) to be reset using an OBD2 scanner. [COLOR=#1F1F1F !important]





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This video shows the location of the auxiliary battery in a Range Rover Evoque:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkEepF7JaSI






Purpose of the Auxiliary Battery [COLOR=#1F1F1F !important]





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• It powers various electrical systems, including the start-stop function, electronic modules, and features like blind spot assist and lane keeping assist.
• It prevents voltage drops during engine start-stop cycles.
• It maintains power to electrical components when the main battery is under load or the engine is off.

Symptoms of a Faulty Auxiliary Battery [COLOR=#1F1F1F !important]





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• An "Auxiliary Battery Malfunction" warning light on the instrument cluster.
• Issues with electrical systems, such as the radio, GPS, or PDC sensors.
• Engine starting difficulties or dim lights.
• Safety features like blind spot assist or lane keeping assist may stop working.

Replacement Process & Resetting the BMS

• Locate: The auxiliary battery is typically found behind the glove box. [COLOR=#1F1F1F !important]
  
  

• Disconnect: Disconnect the vehicle's main battery first. [COLOR=#1F1F1F !important]
  
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• Remove Trim: Remove trim around the battery area and the battery clamp. [COLOR=#1F1F1F !important]
  
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• Install New Battery: Connect the new battery, ensuring the positive terminal is connected before the negative one. [COLOR=#1F1F1F !important]
  
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• Reset BMS: This is a crucial step. Use an OBD2 scanner to reset the vehicle's Battery Management System (BMS) to inform it of the new battery. Failure to do so can lead to undercharging, overcharging, and other vehicle faults

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