Thread: Anderson plug for camper trailer connection

Originally Posted by Red90Puma

2021 D200 90 NZ member. Has anyone fitted an Anderson plug to a defender for charging batteries in a camper trailer ? Grateful for any advice on the process

Hi,
I've done this on my D250 MHEV 110. I ran the cable from the aux battery (installed separately) through another Andersen connector so that I could disconnect it easily if needed. It runs under the foam insert, cable tied and conduited up to a small oval grommet in the rear left side that I sliced a tiny hole to push through the twin core cable. I then used a silicon based sealant around the grommet and cable. Conduited the cable on the outside and ran / cable tied under the bumper to fix an Andersen mount near the trailer plug. I was going to cut a rectangular piece in the bumper for the mount but at this stage I have been just tucking it under the bumper when not in use. I was mildly anxious about slicing the grommet but this seemed the most logical way to get to the outside of the vehicle. I have applied a lot of sealant. We are going wading this weekend, will let you know if there is any water ingress. I will also post some photos later as I am pulling everything out of the loadspace today for a pre-trip inspection.
Is yours the MHEV version? Have you installed an auxiliary lithium battery / lithium dcdc charger?

Originally Posted by VillaDazzler

Hi,
I've done this on my D250 MHEV 110. I ran the cable from the aux battery (installed separately) through another Andersen connector so that I could disconnect it easily if needed. It runs under the foam insert, cable tied and conduited up to a small oval grommet in the rear left side that I sliced a tiny hole to push through the twin core cable. I then used a silicon based sealant around the grommet and cable. Conduited the cable on the outside and ran / cable tied under the bumper to fix an Andersen mount near the trailer plug. I was going to cut a rectangular piece in the bumper for the mount but at this stage I have been just tucking it under the bumper when not in use. I was mildly anxious about slicing the grommet but this seemed the most logical way to get to the outside of the vehicle. I have applied a lot of sealant. We are going wading this weekend, will let you know if there is any water ingress. I will also post some photos later as I am pulling everything out of the loadspace today for a pre-trip inspection.
Is yours the MHEV version? Have you installed an auxiliary lithium battery / lithium dcdc charger?

Many thanks. No mine is not the MHEV they did not import that to NZ initially and I don't have an aux battery as yet. This will need to be from the main battery so it is that connection route that is important. However your info is very useful

For anyone who is interested, here are a few snaps of my auxiliary battery, lithium dcdc charger and andersen plug install in my D250 MHEV 110. Power supply from the aux lithium battery and andersen plug is independent of the 48V lithium and cranking AGM battery under the driver's seat.
Battery and charger fit quite nicely in the foam insert and I have confirmed with the manufacturer that the battery can sit on its side. Having the 48V electrics and stock dc-dc converter in the rear makes this a relatively simple installation.
I run a fridge, loadspace lights, water pump and USB devices from the 100Ah slimline battery and so far I have been very pleased with the results. I tend to leave the barn door open overnight when I go camping and I am working on a solution
that will enable this without any current draw from the main starting battery, which tends to happen when someone opens a passenger door or when the recirculation fan occasionally fires up for some reason. Anyone knows what triggers this?
I am going to try and simulate a locked vehicle by inserting a carabiner in the barn door locking mechanism and see if this lets me keep the barn door open without drawing any current from the main cranking battery.

20220524_175827.jpg20220524_180419.jpg20220524_180444.jpg20220524_180914.jpg20220524_180909.jpg20220524_180921.jpg

Originally Posted by VillaDazzler

I am going to try and simulate a locked vehicle by inserting a carabiner in the barn door locking mechanism and see if this lets me keep the barn door open without drawing any current from the main cranking battery.

Sounds like a project for Simon from PowerfulUK. He is doing a bunch of work decoding CanBus signals which is probably what would be needed to elegantly do what you require - Analysing CANbus data on a Land Rover Defender L663 using SAVVYCAN ( To add new accessories ) - YouTube

Originally Posted by laughto

Sounds like a project for Simon from PowerfulUK. He is doing a bunch of work decoding CanBus signals which is probably what would be needed to elegantly do what you require - Analysing CANbus data on a Land Rover Defender L663 using SAVVYCAN ( To add new accessories ) - YouTube

Yeah Simon and Tyler make some great videos for the new defender. There is one where they talk about the high current draw (about 10 amps) from the main battery when someone opens a door, mostly due to the pivi pro OS booting up. I did my carabiner test this morning and can confirm that you can in fact click a carabiner in the locking mechanism of the barn door and double lock the vehicle with the barn door wide open!! This puts everything running from the main battery to sleep. Now I can leave the barn door open and not have to pack up the cooking / food prep / washup items which rest on my rear door fold down table.

Originally Posted by VillaDazzler

For anyone who is interested, here are a few snaps of my auxiliary battery, lithium dcdc charger and andersen plug install in my D250 MHEV 110. Power supply from the aux lithium battery and andersen plug is independent of the 48V lithium and cranking AGM battery under the driver's seat.
Battery and charger fit quite nicely in the foam insert and I have confirmed with the manufacturer that the battery can sit on its side. Having the 48V electrics and stock dc-dc converter in the rear makes this a relatively simple installation.
I run a fridge, loadspace lights, water pump and USB devices from the 100Ah slimline battery and so far I have been very pleased with the results. I tend to leave the barn door open overnight when I go camping and I am working on a solution
that will enable this without any current draw from the main starting battery, which tends to happen when someone opens a passenger door or when the recirculation fan occasionally fires up for some reason. Anyone knows what triggers this?
I am going to try and simulate a locked vehicle by inserting a carabiner in the barn door locking mechanism and see if this lets me keep the barn door open without drawing any current from the main cranking battery.

20220524_175827.jpg20220524_180419.jpg20220524_180444.jpg20220524_180914.jpg20220524_180909.jpg20220524_180921.jpg

I’m just about to undertake a similar install, and plan on tapping into the vehicles built in DCDC charger in the load space. How did you isolate power during this install? With both 48 and 12v systems coming from this component it seems like it might not be as simple as disconnecting the start battery?