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Thread: How to complicate things

  1. #1
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    How to complicate things


  2. #2
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    Not to worry. They're never going to break down.... Are they?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
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    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  3. #3
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    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by one_iota View Post
    Having the lever in the engine bay on the earlier models seemed the best way by far,maybe i am missing something,or it wasn't complicated enough...

    On the newer models, how do you go if there is no battery power or the engine can not be started for whatever reason?

    Still seems unnecessarily complicated,makes the D4 set up seem easy,and more practicle as well.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by scarry View Post
    Having the lever in the engine bay on the earlier models seemed the best way by far,maybe i am missing something,or it wasn't complicated enough...

    On the newer models, how do you go if there is no battery power or the engine can not be started for whatever reason?

    Still seems unnecessarily complicated,makes the D4 set up seem easy,and more practicle as well.
    Why can't I find any YT vids on how to put my D2 in neutral... or my Ford, for that matter?
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    Why can't I find any YT vids on how to put my D2 in neutral... or my Ford, for that matter?
    Probably the same reason there has never been any screetching from the handbrake on either of them.

  7. #7
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    Some fact checking:

    According to the owners guide In order for this procedure (release of the transmission park to lock the transmission in neutral) to work the following conditions need to apply:


    1. The vehicle must be stationary [chock the wheels]
    2. The EPB Electric Parking Brake must be applied. [common to all models]
    3. The vehicle battery must be sufficiently charged [to power the electrics and crank the engine}
    4. The engine cranks but fails to start [note: the engine doesn't need to start, just crank over]


    The rest is as described by Simon in his roundabout way in the videos.

    So what are the situations that require this procedure, presumably to be towed to a place where it can be put on a tilt bed truck?

    The engine stops but will crank and won't start.
    There is a driveline failure, diff, torque converter.....?

    If the battery is insufficiently charged to crank the motor use someone else's battery or a starter pack.

    What happens in the previous cable-actuated solution if the cable comes adrift or the lever handle on the actuator breaks

    So a bad day is if for some reason other than a flat battery the engine won't crank. So if all else fails drag it!
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by one_iota View Post
    Some fact checking:

    According to the owners guide In order for this procedure (release of the transmission park to lock the transmission in neutral) to work the following conditions need to apply:


    1. The vehicle must be stationary [chock the wheels]
    2. The EPB Electric Parking Brake must be applied. [common to all models]
    3. The vehicle battery must be sufficiently charged [to power the electrics and crank the engine}
    4. The engine cranks but fails to start [note: the engine doesn't need to start, just crank over]


    The rest is as described by Simon in his roundabout way in the videos.

    So what are the situations that require this procedure, presumably to be towed to a place where it can be put on a tilt bed truck?

    The engine stops but will crank and won't start.
    There is a driveline failure, diff, torque converter.....?

    If the battery is insufficiently charged to crank the motor use someone else's battery or a starter pack.

    What happens in the previous cable-actuated solution if the cable comes adrift or the lever handle on the actuator breaks

    So a bad day is if for some reason other than a flat battery the engine won't crank. So if all else fails drag it!
    I was advised by local LR dealer service manager, for the procedure described in the manual to work the conditions listed above need to be true (including #4 The engine cranks but fails to start) That means you require an engine problem.
    I was keen to practice a stress free recovery drill, but was warned not to play with the electronics as I could compromise the computer. They assured me the recovery agent would know what to do?

    Not what you would want the hear with a problem on the beach with the tide coming in with no phone reception

    Unfortunately the Simon PowerfulUK unofficial method only releases the EPB and requires the motor running to select neutral

    Are any of the scan tools capable of defeating both the transmission Park and the EPB for a recovery situation? Has anyone used the IGUIDE(owner manual) Recovery Method, successfully in a real recovery situation?

  9. #9
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    What am I missing that is complicated?
    A sequence of start button pressing and a couple of accelerator presses...

    If you can't start the car and the tide is coming in it doesn't matter what vehicle you're in.
    Don't get in that situation.
    _________________________
    1996 D1 V8 - gone
    2002 D2 Td5 ES- gone but still running elsewhere
    2013 D4 SDV6 HSE - gone
    2023 Defender 110SE D300

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