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Thread: Odd battery drain issue

  1. #11
    Join Date
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    Yes, but the OP's is a 2020 model, the BSIG recall was for 23-24 MY. That's not to say it isn't a BiSG issue, worth checking out.

  2. #12
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    I thought I'd post an update for anyone curious.

    My battery drain issues are now sorted. Basically what happened was:

    • Car went to JLR for service. They tried to complete a recall and update software. In the process they fried the NFSM module (Sensors and cameras).
    • Battery was draining to almost flat overnight since.
    • Now the challenge for me was that a) I only just received the car and b) I replaced the battery after the service so I didn't know if any issues were pre-existing.
    • The bricked module effectively left an open circuit draining the battery.
    • Yesterday JLR replaced the module finally and the battery drain is gone and back to spec.


    Super frustrating to think of the damage that has been done to the battery over 3 months with constant draw even though I've had it on a charger every night.

  3. #13
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    I have just started to get regular Low Battery warnings. The Defender D300 is 2 years old

    The advise from the dealer was to go for a longer drives and keep the vehicle locked and alarm armed when parked up.

    I normally didnt bother arming the alarm as it is locked in a shed

    Hopefully this will help. The BSIG issue is not applicable to my VIN

    Im reluctant to trickle charge . Is it OK to use a smart charger (CteK) via the terminal posts under the bonnet?

    By contrast my 2012 Defender is still starting on its factory fitted battery (getting close to 13 y)!

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
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    Sydney's gritty inner west (2204) and verdant Mount Wilson
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grappler View Post
    .....

    Im reluctant to trickle charge . Is it OK to use a smart charger (CteK) via the terminal posts under the bonnet?
    They are greedy!

    Mine is also 2 years old.

    It goes for a long drive every second week to our place in the bush. In the city it is rarely used and I keep it double locked and the key in a Faraday pouch as the Defender is close to where I keep the keys. I have a bluetooth battery monitor fitted to keep an eye on voltage. If it gets below 12.4 volts as a result of opening the doors to get stuff and the occasional short trip I put it on a decent quality smart charger (22amp) connected to the posts under the bonnet. I've been doing this for 2 years and have only had a low battery warning twice whilst away from a charging opportunity. It takes about an hour to get the battery back to full charge

    It might be worth having the battery tested to see if its losing its capacity.

    My 2008 is constantly attached to a charger to keep both batteries in good form.
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  5. #15
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    Battery Maintenance

    Hi folks and long drives only solve low battery issues if you drive long drives virtually every day.

    The problems caused by low use and lots of short drives can NOT be resolved by the occasional long drive.

    Also Note, you are not Robinson Crusoe. This a common problem with most new vehicles, particularly when they are the second drive, not the primary drive vehicle.

    First off, while better than nothing at all, but Mahn, your one hour charge actually does not full charge the battery.

    All lead acid batteries Sulphate when not used regularly and decent driving is done when they are used.

    That hour hour charge will top up the battery capacity that can be charged, but your battery may well only have anything from 80% down to 20% available and that’s all you are charging.

    To fully charge a lead acid battery and to reverse the effects of Sulphation, your need to have your charger run for around 12+ hours straight.

    And you may need to do this every night for at least a week to get your battery back to full health.

    Here are to links that will explain how to check your battery, and how the Maintenance cycling works and how to do it for the best results.


    Scroll down the page till you get to “LOAD TEST”
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-verandah/246755-line-auto-electrical-info-10.html


    Scroll down the page till you get to “Battery Maintenance”
    https://www.aulro.com/afvb/the-verandah/246755-line-auto-electrical-info-8.html

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by drivesafe View Post

    ......And you may need to do this every night for at least a week to get your battery back to full health.
    Good guidance as usual thanks Tim.

    The Ctek charger has a recondition mode. Does this help dealing with the sulphation issue?
    Mahn England

    DEFENDER 110 D300 SE '23 (the S M E G)

    Ex DEFENDER 110 wagon '08 (the Kelvinator)
    http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members-rides/105691-one_iotas-110-inch-kelvinator.html

    Ex 300Tdi Disco:



  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by one_iota View Post
    Good guidance as usual thanks Tim.

    The Ctek charger has a recondition mode. Does this help dealing with the sulphation issue?
    Many AGM batteries do not take kindly to RECONDITION charging.

    I will leave this one to your personal decision but I NEVER use a Recondition cycle on any AGM.

    They are fine with any Wet or Flooded type battery.

  8. #18
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    Since getting in the habit of arming the Defender when not being driven I havent has any low battery warnings

    The powerfuluk YT episode https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SMj7XBJ48WM explains the power draw in different door opening and arming scenarios, very well

    Yesterday I installed update OS 4.2.1 that came over the air It included "Improved protection of 12v battery hardware during long cranking events"

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