Thread: 113-372

G'day All,
I have been side stepping the seatbox in the shed for months now, so today I thought 'let's do the job'.
Off I went to our local Super****p, here I bought a grit blast gun with media container on the gun (this saves me taking my other gun apart and get it out of grit blast cabinet), anyway I used whatever media I had laying about, mainly to get into the corners etc, I was quite happy with the way it performed.


Look at 'Max' trying not to be noticed LOL, next task was to mix the Etch primer ( I use Protec), it generally dries very quickly

'Max n Sophie' checking out whats going down in the backyard, note all the mesh around the garden in the background, methinks Max, Sophie & Monty are vegeterians, they continue to destroy swmbo's Capsicum plant, they love it, anyway time to mix some DBG and splash it about

many other items were sprayed DBG mainly 2BA screws etc for the fuel filler necks, including the 2 cover plates for the handbrake,


well that was my day, no rain anyway cheers Dennis

G'day Dennis & all,

A point Dennis didn't make was that you need to take the six seat rails off before you paint everything.

Although this is a bit tedious (as it has 32 nice UNF bolts) it allows you to get to the corrosion between the rail & the seat base. If you don't repair this & clean off the corrosion, it will keep corroding away.

You can also change to an adjustable seat rail at this time too. (I haven't) They are available for the driver's side after about 67? models onward and for vertically challenged drivers they are a good mod.

The captive speed nuts are also usually missing, so try and keep the ones that are there in a container as they are of better quality than a replacement of today.

Also... don't force out the fuel tank covers as they are difficult to get flat once they are bent.

Last point is: If you can, mask over the fuel tank switch sticker as it is irreplaceable as far as I know. Looks better than Dymo.

Ian

G'day All,
Yes as Ian has said 'You do have to remove the seat rails', they are generally corroded (electrolysis) mainly because the seat rails and the aluminium underneath was never coated with paint etc, add moisture & dirt= electrolysis+++, mine was not spared either, thats why I grit blasted those areas + where I couldn't get with my orbital sander.
After I had cleaned them, I wiped with a very small amount of body filler, sanded back smooth, etch prime>> paint DBG.
I have 2 replacement seat rails (outers) the double rows in between the seats are corroded badly as well, so I need 2 replacements for those, seat rails out of a 109 are different (just in case you didn't know) they differ from swb's in the fact that 109 vertical piece is at the end of the rail, swb's are about 20mm (3/4") from the end. If you fit rails from a 109" in a 88" L/R the seat back will foul the clips fitted to the transome to hold crank handle etc,,.
I'm in the process of cleaning all the seat box bolts/washers/spring washers ATM, it's a big job (time consuming & repetetive) running a tap thru the nuts and a die down the bolt, then grit blast..etch prime..paint the undersides of the washers etc flat black, then top coat them in DBG, a nice easy job on a cold wet n lousey day, back to work tomorrow, anyway cheers Dennis
ps I had some of those stickers remade about 10 years ago??, I wonder if I have any left, must check tomorrow if I don't forget LOL,,.

Originally Posted by Dinty

G'day All,

ps I had some of those stickers remade about 10 years ago??, I wonder if I have any left, must check tomorrow if I don't forget LOL,,.

If you do find some I need two and maybe another depending on if the gunbuggy someone (anyone?) is going to give me has a good one!

G'day All,
This afternoon after work, I made a start on cleaning the threads on the multitude of 1/4"UNF (3/4" & 5/8" in length) nuts n bolts that fit in and around the seat box

each nut is run down on the 1/4"UNF tap,

I'm wearing disposable gloves because my fingers are a mess from 12 days off work and on the tools at home, just trying to minimise problems for me,
then each bolt is run through the 1/4"UNF die, I usually lock it into the benchvise, mainly to ease the pain in my wrists and thumbs (arthritis)

along the way I had 2 rejects, the heads of the bolts have fretted away, replacements were found in my large bucket of Land Rover nuts/bolts etc
note the electrolysis on the thread,

most of the bolts were like that (with electrolysis), anyway grit blast and etch prime/paint will fix that problem.
I like all the nuts and bolts to unscrew with my fingers after the tension has been cracked off, I can see many more hours of this before I'm done, and many more grit blasting and etch priming & painting the undersides of washers etc flat black, anyway cheers Dennis
ps I haven't looked to see if I have any of those stickers as yet,,.

G'day All,
Whilst waiting for etch prime etc to dry this morning, I decided to fit the 3 x 1/4"UNF Rivnuts to the firewall, to secure the Voltage regulator, I have 3 blank holes at present


I made a tool a long time ago and I have put it to good use at times, it's made from 25 x 6 flat bar, with a slot cut in it for the Allen key, the Rivnuts are available from Blanchards in the UK, I found it difficult if not impossible to buy Imperial sized Rivnuts here in Oz,

anyway set them up in the tool, with a light spray of lube, make sure the cap screw goes right through the Rivnut to the end, I always fit a small washer between Rivnut and tool


look at 'Max' trying not to be noticed LOL, then apply tool etc to the job

work the nut around with a spanner, this pulls the Rivnut in around the hole, do not over tighten or you end up stripping the thread in the Rivnut (after all they are only Aluminium), but make sure it's firmly attached to the bulkhead or whatever, you will feel it get tight

and after a few more minutes you will have fitted them all, very easy really

anyway I'm off back outside to spray more etch primer, cheers Dennis

G'day All,
Earlier in the week (after work) I spent quite a bit of time cleaning nuts/bolts/washers etc for the seatbox assembly, well they were all etch primed yesterday

and the undersides of all them painted Flat Black to reduce the chance of further electrolysis.


This morning I mixed a small amount of DBG and sprayed all the nuts/bolts/washers, they were fitted to cardboard to make it easy to handle etc.
I then turned my attention to the outer seat rails, cleaning them with a cup wire brush, then a quick grit blast where needed, then coat the base with DBG

and when it was touch dry a coat of DBG to the topside

and a few hours later, fit them loosely to the seat box, just to minimise the amount of kit that I have painted just sitting around, I fitted all the bolts as well

now to find replacements for these items, very badly affected by Electrolysis/rust

I might have said before that swb seat bases differ from lwb in the fact that the vertical riser is approx 30mm from the end of the base, anyway I will find 2 good examples somewhere I'm sure, cheers Dennis

Dennis mate your an absolute Genius! thanks for showing the details on the RivNuts.......! Awesome resto!

Cheers,

Chris