Thread: FFR Refurb

Originally Posted by gromit

Bled the brakes & clutch over Christmas then the master cylinder decided to leak !

Turns out the two spigots on the master cylinder reservoir that fit into rubber seals had pushed the seals away and hadn't sealed.
Off with the master cylinder, fix the problem then re-install and next time it's out of the shed bleed the brakes again.

Then spent some time chasing electrical issues, still trying to find where the brake light signal is disappearing. I have a horrible feeling it's a break in the wiring section inside the chassis rail !
More investigation needed.

Re-fitted the Jerry can holders and made seals for the reverse lights from some thin closed cell foam.





Colin

Can you bypass that cable with a single wire for now just to test?

Originally Posted by 4bee

Can you bypass that cable with a single wire for now just to test?

I've effectively done that.
Checked power at the start and provided power to the rear connector and the brake lights come on.
When I get time I need to see if the break is where it goes into or comes out of the chassis so it could be repaired.
Otherwise I'll make up a new harness and use the old one to pull it through.


Colin

Originally Posted by gromit

I've effectively done that.
Checked power at the start and provided power to the rear connector and the brake lights come on.
When I get time I need to see if the break is where it goes into or comes out of the chassis so it could be repaired.
Otherwise I'll make up a new harness and use the old one to pull it through.


Colin

Great, the ends do seem to be a bit vulnerable if hit by a rock or summat & add to that, that cable seems to be very brittle with age.

Rolling around under the FFR trying to resolve one problem I found another.....

Noticed oil dribbling from behind the transmission brake !!
At least the 'catcher' on the inside was doing it's job keeping oil away from the drum & shoes.

Propshaft out, strip the handbrake drum & mounting off, replace seal (stock item). Quick repaint of the drum and re-install everything......

Brake light wiring is intact, it seems to be the switch in the brake hydraulic line. The signal goes though a pressure switch, a mechanical switch and is also affected by turning on the Blackout Lights.

The pressure switch isn't a standard Land Rover item so more investigation needed.


Colin

The FFR came with a crack across the drivers side windscreen.
No etched marking so I assumed someone had just got some laminated glass cut to size.

Removed the frame. screens are 'in stock' (ordered from Paddocks), also have the butyl rubber strip to install them.
The drivers side will go in the skip at work, the passenger side has one 'bullseye' low down so I'll probably keep it for the time being.

Sorted out some bolts and installed the radio tables. These were purchased at Corowa years ago.

A few small issues to fix and then I can get the canopy back on


Colin

Hi Colin,

What colour would it have been in it's army days?

The plain green of the door, or the camo of the rest of it?

Tony

Originally Posted by TonyC

Hi Colin,

What colour would it have been in it's army days?

The plain green of the door, or the camo of the rest of it?

Tony

Hi Tony,
It was camo.
The doors have been de-skinned , repaired, re-skinned & painted (post #62).

The aim, long term, is to re-paint in camo.

Colin

Showers most of yesterday.
Managed to get on the roof & clear the spouting before the showers started in earnest then decided to work on the FFR.

I've just installed some raised upper seatbelt mounts on my IIa GS, seemed only fair that I installed some on the FFR.
Lots of trips up & down the garden, FFR at one end of the property and tools in the garage at the other end.

As I'm installing inertia reel seatbelts I then had to decide how/where to mount the 'reel'.
Worked out a solution and with the aid of a Cornflakes packet made templates. As expected the brackets need to be slightly different each side !
Brackets made from 3mm steel, just need to remove the filler neck to fine tune the drivers side bracket, I'll then drill holes and weld a 7/16" UNF nut on the bracket for the reel to mount.
A quick coat of olive drab and it'll look like it's always been there. I'll also brush paint all those shiny nuts & bolts.


Colin