Thread: FFR Refurb

Thanks for the suggestions guys.....

Just costed Timken wheel bearings (see Series III forum) at $315 per hub !!!
It started off as a 'cheap' Land Rover but is rapidly becoming a money pit. Makes you wonder about the economics of buying a 'restorers delight' over the 'fully refurbished' version.

My '56 Series 1 was in far better condition than the FFR but looked worse from the outside. Lesson learned........


Colin

We discussed names for the FFR last night, I can't print some of the wife's ideas.
Wade was well accepted then SWMBO suggested Collins Class.....they had nearly as may problems and cost issues as my FFR !
Holbrook is also another possibility after the submarine captain.


Colin

Hi Gromit!

I only just stumbled across this post! I like your work!

Thanks for the pictures of the engine rebuild - very interesting! I had often wondered how it was done with the engine in place. I liked the use of the sandwich bags to keep the big end bearings free of dirt etc.

Did you keep the same/original big end bearing or replace these too? And what method did you use to keep out all the honing dust from the rest of the engine? And how did you work out what size rings to fit?

Many thanks in advance!

James

James,

The big end bearings & journals were OK (+.010) so were re-fitted.
As for keeping metallic particles out of the engine....I put rag over the journals then cleaned up afterwards. The sump was on & off while the work was carried out because I'm working outside on a gravel driveway so this was cleaned at the end of the job. The journals & crank were wiped over after the scraping & honing was completed.
My thinking is that oil is delivered everywhere via the filter so any particles left end up in the sump or the filter and shouldn't get delivered around the engine. A few may get splashed around but it couldn't be any worse than what I found when the sump was removed.

They used to rebore engines while still in the car, this would have created a lot of metallic particles that dropped into the motor. The father-in-law said all they did was put some rag over the big end journals and clean up afterwards.
The oil and filter will be replaced sooner rather than later.

As for the piston ring size, I read the oversize off the piston ...... I also checked the bore on an unworn part at the bottom using a telescope gauge & large micrometer to confirm the oversize.
The bore is a few thou larger in diameter due to wear but I also checked the end gaps of the new rings in the bore before fitting to the pistons.

Not rocket science but you do need access to suitable measuring equipment.


Colin

Decided to change the gearbox & transfer box oil at the weekend. Even if I don't intend to use a vehicle for some time I usually change all the oils, it's nice to know that there is the correct quantity of clean oil where it should be.
Gearbox, less than half a litre drained out ! The drain plug was very tight until it had been undone 2 or 3 turns, almost as if it was the wrong thread. I annealed the drain plug washer and screwed he plug back in, again tight for the last couple of turns but nothing obviously wrong.
Transfer box had maybe 2 litres in it, very black and evidence of fine metal particles so more investigation needed at some point in the future.

Luckily I have a reasonably priced supplier for EP 80W90 because it's getting expensive if you buy the big brands.

Tonight I was feeling brave and decided to check one of the front brakes & hub. The drum came off easily, evidence of water in the drum in the past (slight rust) but shoes looked new and hadn't even bedded in fully, both wheel cylinders looked newish. Pulled the hub off and after cleaning out the grease found that the smaller taper roller bearing was badly pitted.
Time for another Indian wheel bearing set. I got a spare set but odds are that the other front hub will need bearings as well.....

Colin

Managed to get the Indian bearings in the hub last week then covered the hub with a plastic bag to keep the weather off.
Then it rained a bit on Friday night !

I've managed to clean the paths around the house (after shovelling a lot of sand & dirt off) pump out the pit under the pool (an above ground partly set in-ground) get the pool working again (pump submerged while running !). I now have to re-build the driveway (gravel washout) try to move the garden back uphill, get the drains unblocked etc......
No water into the house luckily but a couple of the sheds had about 2" of water through them. Nothing important damaged but a reminder not to store bags of quickset concrete on the floor, anyone want a couple of large lumps of concrete.

The FFR & 2a GS were outside (still haven't got the roof on the shed extension). The FFR is on an axle stand which was gradually sinking into the driveway on Friday night as the water swept the driveway away.
Looks like the Landys will be on the backburner for a while.

Have attached a picture of our free water feature and also the Narre Cranbourne road which is still flooded and may not be clear for another few days causing major traffic problems every morning at the moment.


Colin

hi Colin,
thats crazy mate your garden turned into a water fall, we had 165mm in keysborough one part of Cheltneham rd was 7ft deep!
cheers chris

Chris,

The Narre Cranbourne Road didn't open until Wednesday after the flooding and the smell as you drive along there is 'on the nose'.
Collected a metre and a half of Lillydale Toppings to fill the holes in the driveway last weekend and I'm still shoveling the garden back uphill to where it belongs. Just have to deal with AAMI regarding getting the drains unblocked, one call it's covered, next call it isn't ! I know they're busy and a lot of people are far worse off than us but it would be nice to get a straight answer......

Started and ran the Series 1, FFR & 2aGS at the weekend because 2 of them sit outside and the Series 1 shed copped a couple of inches of water through it. Collected the zincalume for the shed extension roof last week, just have to find time to fit it now......


Colin