Thread: Carburetor issues!! again.

Originally Posted by Dinty

I seem to plagued with Solex carburetor problems just of late, anyway this is my predicament at the moment.

it sounds as though it's ?? missing,

Dennis, it's missing a "T" from "carburettor".

After having intermittent "carburettor" problems for years with my 2a, it stopped, or rather refused to start. I tracked down the problem and replaced the coil. This got it going again, no problems.

But it now runs better than it has ever run since I owned it! With nothing changed.

The moral is that "carburettor" problems are not always carburettor. (It has happened before, last time was points closed up)

Also, check the PCV (if fitted) or other vacuum leaks.

John

whats playing with the choke do.


can you sneak up and hold WOT?

if it'll hold power at WOT then you have a vac leak

if it wont hold power at WOT then most likely you have a fouled gallery or a leak on the carby itself.

if its starting out and running properly and developing loss of power or missig you might have a dying coil/supressor thats weakening the spark.

last thought is the fuel pump drawing air as it warms up.

I have to ask ? WOT ?? wot does that mean? many thanks for the responses, cheers Dennis
ps will try the choke question when I'm able to,,.

Wide Open Throttle.

only really works as a diagnostic for the solex type carbies that use proper fuel enrichment rather than an extra butterfly like the zeniths.

Well here I am still trying to figure out what is happening LOL, just to sum it all up, the engine runs rev's ++ when not under load (moving the vehicle weight around) when it does drive it is gutless in 4th gear.
In 2009 we drove it to Corowa and experienced no difficulty down n back, since then it would have covered approx. 100k's, not many K's but on concessional rego etc, around 2012/3 it backfired coming back from the Anzac day service, I figured maybe the condenser in the dizzie was U/S so I replaced the whole points etc with Electronic ignition of a reputable brand, since then it has only been driven to town (3.0k's all up).
I have last week replaced the coil, but it has made no difference, I have a timing light and put it on and pointed it at the pointer @ the front of the engine, but with my failing eyesight etc, I'm unsure as what is actually happening, so this afternoon I took this image of the marks on the C/shaft pulley

now there are 5 marks so I'm assuming that each of those marks either side of the centre would be 6deg<>3deg<>TDC<>3deg<>6deg BTDC, and if this is so how do I know how to adjust the distributor if it's retarded/advanced, and do I adjust the distributor with or without Vacuum advance connected.
What should I be aiming for 3deg or 6deg BTDC??, cheers Dennis
ps I'm going to adjust the tappets etc tomorrow just to make sure they are right,,.

I can't see the pointer in the picture, but if it is the standard one, it has three points on it, from the left (facing towards the back of the vehicle) they are 6 BTDC, 3 BTDC and TDC. In case of doubt you can remove the No.1 plug and get the exact TDC by feeling the top of the piston with a probe such as a wooden skewer.

For fuels available here you probably need 6 BTDC, but be prepared to adjust it slightly after driving it. Best setting is advance it until it just pings on full throttle at low speed, then retard it a fraction, but 6 BTDC should be pretty close. This assumes very slow idle with no vacuum advance, but remember to connect this before the driving test.

John

I should have stated the image was taken from underneath the front of the vehicle, (the pointer has 3 fingers on it) I thought it would be better to get an image from underneath with nothing blocking the view, cheers Dennis