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Thread: 2a FFT ARN 114 032

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Thornleigh or Mt Marsden
    Posts
    24

    2a FFT ARN 114 032

    Hi there,
    I'm the proud owner of a Series 2a FFT rescued from a paddock near Dunns Swamp recently.
    Looking at the compliance plates and then cross checking with REMLR, it appears to be ARN 114 032. It coughed a bit and is not seized, but will need quite a bit of work.
    I have started vacuuming a lot of grot off it so I can see what is there.
    Next task will be to change the oil (there's not much in it!) and the water (nothing there either!) and other fluids as I get there.
    Also going through the REMLR details to fill in the blanks.
    Many thanks to Hugh for finding it, Michael, Michael and Brendan (you know who you are!) for enormous assistance in getting it into our shed.
    Some pictures of when we picked it up in the field, and in the shed (pic 33). The white Disco is a fabulous tow truck, and the hire trailer was surprisingly good.

    - Jill
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    Last edited by jillr; 19th June 2019 at 07:35 PM. Reason: Picture re-sized

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2017
    Location
    SE Suburbs Melbourne
    Posts
    141
    Nice 2a FFT ARN 114 032
    Looks to be in fairly good shape 2a FFT ARN 114 032
    1979 SIII 109 Ex Army GS ARN 30-829 (SOLD)
    1969 SIIa Carawagon

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Thornleigh or Mt Marsden
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    24

    Wasp nests

    So, on Monday I got out the shop-vac and finished cleaning in and out. Lots of flaking paint came off, removed lots of misc. grot. In the engine bay were lots of "concrete" wasps nests. These were mainly on the right hand (drivers') side, probably because the left hand side smells of petrol. Since it's under cover now, some of the lichen is lifting off the bodywork. I can now see where the steering goes as the wasp nests are gone. Persistent little blighters!
    The paint colour was originally bronze-olive, probably lead based. The other coats are possibly acrylic. The previous owner said he used spray pack for the light green.
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  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Thornleigh or Mt Marsden
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    Engine investigations

    Eventually I managed to read the engine number, which took the combine effort of a bright sunny day, the right glasses, a chair out of the shearing shed, some clean-up paper and a bright torch. 90245841C. Was expecting 25248945H. The engine was painted dark blue under the grime, so presumably at some stage of its history it was swapped out. I wonder whether the odometer was reset (about 75000 miles - probably not) or whether the run time was reset? The hours meter looks like it's out of something else, since it's written in both German and English.
    Also I love the typo on the dymo label (painted over) that at first glance looks like "lighter", but has been punched "ligher". That might be how you pronounce it
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  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    23,000
    1. I doubt the hour meter is a military fitting, although it could be. And even if it is military, it is clearly not original - something else was in that hole originally.

    2. My ex-army 2a came with a newly reconditioned engine - painted dark blue.

    3. The 75,000 may be original, but don't forget that it goes back to zero at 100,000, so it is quite possible that it has done a lot more. It has probably been in civilian hands for thirty years or so, as well as twenty or more years in the army.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  6. #6
    UncleHo's Avatar
    UncleHo is offline Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Gold Subscriber
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    Oct 2003
    Location
    Godwin Beach Qld
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    8,681
    G'day Jillr
    A very nice and complete looking vehicle,it's original colour would have been "deep bronze olive" enamel, which would have been over painted with "lustreless olive drab" also an enamel (this is still available from "wattyl paints" from their "structual" range, it is a full flat paint and is quite hard to keep clean,as I have a 1968 2a GS with it on,it shows every hand print and bug kill on it,and to wash off you have to use petrol not good for the skin,gives you skin cancers, I would suggest you repaint in Deep Bronze Green gloss,original an a lot easier to maintain.

    PS. I have just acquired a tired 1990 "Perentie" which I will be returning to original

    cheers
    68 2a GS 6028D 172-484
    85 Range Rover 5 spd
    98 Disco 1 300TDI auto
    80 Ser 3 Lightweight
    Aust No5 trailer 2wheel 1/2 ton Ch 1974=173-489
    Sankey 1/2 ton trailer 32-GJ-65
    REMLR No 003

  7. #7
    UncleHo's Avatar
    UncleHo is offline Part of the Heart and Soul of AULRO Gold Subscriber
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    114-032

    G'day jillr

    That looks like a very original vehicle yes,the original colour would have Deep Bronze Green. being an early military rego number,later vehicles post 1967 were painted "Lusterless Olive Drab,(very hard to keep looking nice & clean,the gloss Deep Bronze Green much easier.)
    if you are going to fully restore it you can then make it & yourself known to your local RSL and possibly offer it for use at ANZAC day and Vietnam vets day parades.

    cheers

    The cigarette lighter was installed by a smoker,like I was until 2000 took a heart attack to stop me
    68 2a GS 6028D 172-484
    85 Range Rover 5 spd
    98 Disco 1 300TDI auto
    80 Ser 3 Lightweight
    Aust No5 trailer 2wheel 1/2 ton Ch 1974=173-489
    Sankey 1/2 ton trailer 32-GJ-65
    REMLR No 003

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Thornleigh or Mt Marsden
    Posts
    24

    114-032

    Quote Originally Posted by UncleHo View Post
    G'day jillr

    That looks like a very original vehicle yes,the original colour would have Deep Bronze Green. being an early military rego number,later vehicles post 1967 were painted "Lusterless Olive Drab,(very hard to keep looking nice & clean,the gloss Deep Bronze Green much easier.)
    if you are going to fully restore it you can then make it & yourself known to your local RSL and possibly offer it for use at ANZAC day and Vietnam vets day parades.

    cheers

    The cigarette lighter was installed by a smoker,like I was until 2000 took a heart attack to stop me
    Yes, the aim is to get it going, get it on historic plates and "parade" it occasionally. So far I've got a copy of the workshop manual and enough parts to perform an oil change. Learning as I go! I'm keen to get the engine going first, bit by bit, then logically I suppose the brakes. Of course I need a battery. We tested it first with another one, but at least it cranks over OK. The seats are completely stuffed but that would be expected. I'm curious about the position of the original tools as there are plenty of holes on the bonnet but also some wingnuts between the driver and passenger which look as though they were to hold something down.
    The driver side door needs attention. I noticed the top sill was loose when I climbed out, so I'll need to fix that up. There is a nice gap between the custom aluminium hood and the top of the door, presumably to let the hot air out
    Found the holes where the antenna connections went in the tub and near the left hand fender. I'm curious about a pocket on the left hand side of the engine bay, between the fender and the bonnet (inside). There are two earth straps, one each side, apparently unused, which presumably grounded some gear which may have been fitted when it was in service.
    Yes it would be nice to have it available for special days when restored, as you suggest. The nearest RSL would be Kandos.

    Cheers,

    Jill

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2018
    Location
    Thornleigh or Mt Marsden
    Posts
    24

    Looking at the sump side of things

    A couple of weeks ago I drained the sump of oil. There was a nice stream of black Landy blood. This has been transferred to the container labelled "Used tractor oil and Landy Blood".
    Left it dripping for a while and cleaned up here and there.
    Today I had a look at the sump pan bolts to see what size they were. They are pretty easy to move, although everything has a thick cake of oil and dirt.
    I think it needs a pressure wash before I undo the sump pan. Nevertheless I put some degreaser on the bolt flange area to loosen things up.
    While lying comfortably underneath contemplating the odd way they did the wiring, a big wind came up and it occurred to me that I should keep things covered.
    So the sump drain plug is back in temporarily.
    I'm surprised the oil filter uses a different spanner size. Maybe I should not be surprised! Something between two spanner sizes, might be a different range.
    I had a good giggle over the odd square cut nuts underneath the cabin. Presumably not original... looked like something from a Meccano set.
    Also why did they run the fuel line through the same area as the electricals? I would have thought that was asking for trouble.

    Meanwhile every time I moved around under the Landy, the resident Willie Wagtail got upset. I hope it's not thinking of building a nest in it! I've parked it between the trusses of the machinery shed so hopefully there is nothing that looks like a perch above it.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Central West NSW
    Posts
    23,000
    Your Landrover is bolted together mainly with UNF bolts and nuts, but you still have some BSF, Whitworth and BA threads and hexagon sizes. Main spanners needed are inch ("AF") and Whitworth. Metric spanners are only useful for sizes that coincide with AF or Whitworth (e.g. 11mm=7/16"=1/4"BSF=3/16"BSW).

    The square nuts you spotted are, I assume, the ones at the front edge of the flat floor - these are supposed to be captive and inside steel boxes spotwelded to the firewall.

    Best source for AF and BSW/BSF spanners is op shops and garage sales, sometimes markets. You can get good spanners for next to nothing.
    John

    JDNSW
    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

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