3.5 V8 Rough running > 80kms on LPG & replacement

**101RRS** · 7th January 2011, 08:18 PM

Originally Posted by bee utey

As for your dissy amp, this was a genuine conversion kit marketed by Bosch in the 80's. My old (2000) Bosch catalogue lists a replacement module part number 9 220 066 005. Probably not available new any more. I know these are specific to the kits and are not interchangeable with other similar looking modules. The main advantage of this kit was easy reversal of the kit fitting to points, so all you need for emergencies is a standard Holden V8 rotor, points and condenser.

Another way to achieve spare parts is to remove the conversion and fit the innards of a Blue motor electronic dissy to your case. These were fitted to Holdens from 1981 to 1985 or thereabouts and are quite common on ebay.
Example: holden v8 electronic distributor (eBay item 250753048039 end time 16-Jan-11 23:04:59 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats
Then with a remote coil/amp set-up like the one I use you have a modern system with OEM spare part availability.

Actually saw just what you want on ebay, I think. Ask the seller what the number in his amp/module is:
Commodore EH HR GTR Holden Electronic Distributor-Wgong (eBay item 110631762771 end time 14-Jan-11 22:08:34 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats

And ask him to look inside the cap and post a pic of the rotor. The rotor won't be any use to you but the pick-up should be...

Cheers

Thanks - great information - yep the backup of the points and condensor is a good safety measure.

**muddy** · 7th January 2011, 09:33 PM

A quick question have you smelt the exhaust on both gas and petrol to make sure that it is changing over ok and not flooding itself on either fuel?

Have been caught!!!!!!!!!!!

**StuRR80** · 9th January 2011, 01:25 PM

Originally Posted by muddy

A quick question have you smelt the exhaust on both gas and petrol to make sure that it is changing over ok and not flooding itself on either fuel?

Have been caught!!!!!!!!!!!

That was one thought I had initially. I just need to work out how to tell if it's flooding (and no - not the rain!).....

I can smell the LPG exhaust when the engine seems to be missing but assume that's the unburnt gas moving through - so I guess it could be either flooding or not being burned due to the previously suggested issues.

I bought some of the Bosch plugs as Bee Utey suggested, so will test on the run to work tomorrow.

**StuRR80** · 9th January 2011, 07:39 PM

Managed to get time to do some stuff on it today. Put the plugs in and took it for a run - ran like a dog! No power. Checked all the electrical contacts and the fuel cut-off. They were fine. Started stuffing around with the leads, etc and started pull ing them off one at a time to see if they made a difference. Found two that didn't change the running of the engine. OK. Checked leads were connected properly, put the old plug back into those cylinders, still nothing...... then it suddenly hit me! Yep, I'd switched the leads/cylinders..... so 2 hours later..... I'm afraid that's what you're dealing with people!

Anyway, changed them back and took it for a run and...... still missing

So can the next step be checking if too much gas it flowing through? How do I test that?

How would I tell if the mixture is right? I assume that is rich/lean? Is it just a matter of adjusting until it's right? That would then affect petrol though, which seem to run ok.

Also, it wouldn't be anything to do with distributor, etc? What, I wouldn't have a clue what but just throwing it out there!

Also, I checked the coil. It IS supposed to run with a resistor.

**bee utey** · 9th January 2011, 07:51 PM

You will have to find the main gas mixture valve/screw. It should be in the gas hose from the converter to the engine. I am not talking idle screws here. Start the engine, hold the throttle steady to around 2500 to 3000 rpm. Screw out the valve until the revs drop (going too rich). Screw it back in until you have maximum revs at a fixed throttle setting. Screw in some more, revs should drop. you are now running lean. Screw out until you just reach max revs. Then let it idle. Rev the engine quickly by hand and listen for quick clean run up to high revs. Adjust the main mixture 1/4 turn either direction either way and see if this slows down the revs. You are looking for the minimum amount of gas to get maximum rev-up rate. Then adjust the idle mixture for best idle speed. Test drive and see how it goes.

**StuRR80** · 9th January 2011, 07:56 PM

Thanks again Bee Utey

Will give that a whirl. I noticed the screws on the gas line up next to the carbies while scratching around this arvo. I guess the trick will be working out the optimum for each carb, since they have individual screws.

**LoveMyV8County** · 10th January 2011, 01:13 PM

Depending on your model of vapouriser, this article here may help

OMVL Adjustment - LandyWiki

I don't have an exhaust gas analyser, but was able to use the info here to get my system running pretty well.

Good luck.

Chris

**StuRR80** · 24th January 2011, 08:51 AM

Thanks guys for your help. I managed to get 1/2 hour to myself yesterday arvo to have a tinker. Twisted a couple of screws and took for a run. Runs much better thank you

. I still need to spend a bit more time adjusting but it's got me past the shudders. Next thing will be to make sure he timing is right.

There's a couple of screws on the evaporator I'm not sure which is which though. I'll try to get a pic to explain better but one is backed by a spring (which I assume is idle adjust?), but I'm not sure what the other is for. The two fuel lines to the carbies have their own adjustment screws up near the carbies.

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