Hate to say this but mixer systems work on D2's (Thor's) so long as the plug gaps are put down to 0.6mm. Otherwise you overload the weakling coil packs and they die, with frequent backfiring. I have a few successful D2 mixer systems out there, never backfired in 3 years.
Granted injection is much safer and better. D1's aren't nearly the same problem on mixers, they are quite easy to prevent backfires on.![]()
The only reasons lpg backfires are running too lean and poor spark. Have run lpg for years and no backfires if tuned correctly. Maybe your system wasnt installed or set up properly.
There is a set of tanks you can get that fit under the sills and hold 35l usable per side. You dont have to have a cradle as they have mounts welded to the tank set, and of course there is no need to touch the std petrol tank. Speak to Sean at Roverparts 1300760125.
Toyota 100 series land Cruisers run those 35 litre sill tanks with welded-on brackets. I can't see how they would fit on a D1. Pictures please? Ground clearance would be compromised badly. The 19 litre APA ones lose 50mm clearance as it is.
l've found with 96 3.9 on gas is very finicky
leads and plugs have to be spot on , timing too
l had a 4.1 cortina '76 on gas for 20 years super reliable easy and cheap to fix and after the dizzy was re-jigged to 10% BTDC from the normal 6% there was hardly any difference from pertol heaps of power
with the landrover however!
l've found that the vaacum lines had tiny cracks at the ends and this affected
the backfiring
two airboxes later had a cheap after market air filter($15)
as to fuel economy 300 kms oer 70 ltrs city 350kms highway
thanks for sharing info very helpful
could where you get your lpg from make a difference? mine seems to backfire more if i get my lpg from the big w servos
or am i just imagining that
Very interesting about all this backfiring. Mine (98 D1 3.9) has had a couple of backfires (3 from mem over 6mths). Firstly thanks for the advice on the plugs and I'll check those out shortly, but have no idea what I'm looking for with the leads. Secondly I was given a new (none LR) MAF and was wondering is it just a case of plug-n-play or do they have to be calibrated? Lastly I've heard the Woolies/Coles LPG is not the best and filling up from ELgas or Supa Gas is by far the prefered option. Lastly my system is 6yrs old and like some others here, I'm most interested in this '$2,500 system' and being able to claim the rebate again. What's the deal there? Oh, P.S.....I love my disco, quirky or not![]()
Bosch have a good lead set in their catalogue for the D1. It can also be done with individual leads from a Bosch ignition lead merchandiser if your auto store has one, a slightly different fit but does the job.
Don't know about the MAF, it either fits or it doesn't.
The rebate is currently only $1250 for fitting a new system, I wouldn't bother, just spend the money on yours. I don't think you can claim two rebates on the same vehicle in any case.
Sounds pretty sweet to me and thanks for the info. I was pretty sure you couldn't have two bites of the cherry with the LPG rebate, still if someone was lucky enough to get it, then half their luck
Also I love the urban myth about leaving the D1 on petrol (guilty as charged) overnight.
Hopefully the new MAF might solve the other problem I have on petrol at the moment. The o'l fella will start up on petrol fine enough and when I switch over to lpg he runs like a dream. However, should I switch back to lpg, acceleration is a no go. If I gently squeeze the pedal, then back off a smidge, squeeze again, I can slowly increase my speed and I do mean, slowly. Try and ask for a bootfull and forget it, it just wants to die in the arse as though it's flooding. Which really makes the petrol tank a good for nothing, heavy lay-about free loader who's enjoying a free ride at my expense.
Cheers, Gremlin
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