Thread: D2 injected gas sysyem on D1

An injected system on its own won't improve your economy unless you have some way of reading the mixture in the exhaust and adjusting the fuelling to suit. That means fitting an oxygen sensor (preferably wide band) and reading the output at the same time as adjusting the LPG fuel map with a lap top computer. That also means you need the tuning software which depending on the brand can cost a few hundred for a legit copy.

The other trick is to enable O2 sensors to your petrol ECU, there are people on this forum who have done so. Then your LPG injection would follow the O2 sensors for better economy.

You'd be cheaper off fixing your mixer system and adding a closed loop fuel controller to it. I've done it plenty of times for various LR owners.

Thanks, does anyone know of a lpg place in Melbourne that can do the o2 sensor mod?

Thanks,
I'm down in Frankston, but will travel a bit to get the job done right.
All the installers i have spoken to either have no idea about the o2 sensor mod or say it just needs a tune.
I know it needs a tune, but i'd like to improve it at the same tim.
Any recommendations of where to go?

A couple of suggestions.

Any exhaust place should be able to weld a sensor socket to the exhaust pipe. My preferred location is in the Y junction by the transfer case as you can drill the pipe in situ and fit the sensor slightly above horizontal, where it's reasonably protected. If you drop the exhaust off you can go on to the top of the pipe.

The sensor I use is a NTK sensor to suit an EA-EL Falcon, part number OZA23-D2. If you acquire a good quality sensor it will last a long time. To wire a Falcon sensor without chopping the plug off the sensor you raid the matching harness side plug from a wrecked 6 cyl Falcon. The plug is just down from the brake booster and easy to get at and chop off. You then solder up an extension cable to bring the wires up to your control box. The thin green/blue wire on the 3 wire plug is the sensor output. To make the sensor operate at all engine loads including idle you need to connect the two thicker (heater) wires to a 12V ignition supply and earth to keep it hot.

If you organise the above then any LPG fitter just needs to wire the control box. Should take him an hour or two at the most.

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Oxygen doesn't travel down the wires. The case of the sensor has a vent.

In principle you're right on 3/4 wire sensor choice but the 3 wire sensor is entirely adequate on the LR conversion as the engine pipe is well earthed to both manifolds as a rule. I've done over 50 of these so I'm not working just from theoretical knowledge.

If you have a passion for 4 wire sensors you can do the same trick with an AU Falcon sensor and loom plug, which removes the need to attempt soldering the sensor. The loom plug of course is just standard tinned copper wire so suited to soldering. In any case universal sensor replacement kits usually come with mechanical joiners, screw type or crimp. It's also because the wire to the sensor isn't able to be soldered as it's not tinned copper. The problems arise not from oxygen access but from poor connections due to the solder not binding to the wires.

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Thanks, did they do the o2 mod for you?

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Some do, some don't

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This is from Bosch's website "Do NOT solder wires. Soldering wires will lead to early sensor failure."[/quote]
Why are you going on and on about soldering sensor wires? I never said to solder the sensor wires, you solder THE HARNESS PLUG THAT THE SENSOR NORMALLY PLUGS INTO to an extension cable. That way any replacement sensor is a factory fit plug and play operation.

Not for all LPG ECU O2 sensor needed. Often it connects, but not uses data from it. Some of the Digitronic/STAG ECU as an example - it connects, it draws pretty diagram on the screen of the tuning program, but it needs only for accurate manual tune-up. So, dont be in a hurry in installing O2 sensors.