Thread: full load mixture settings

Hey how about some details of what kind of system you're running, pics perhaps. Oh and the device with water and gas going through it does absolutely no mixing, that's the function of the thing in the air intake (that mixes gas and air!). You're talking about a converter or vaporiser or regulator depending on what country you're in.

Oh and converters don't have bleed screws as they should self bleed if fitted correctly.

Originally Posted by bee utey

Hey how about some details of what kind of system you're running, pics perhaps. Oh and the device with water and gas going through it does absolutely no mixing, that's the function of the thing in the air intake (that mixes gas and air!). You're talking about a converter or vaporiser or regulator depending on what country you're in.

Oh and converters don't have bleed screws as they should self bleed if fitted correctly.

Oh man I suck, yeah it's just a standard mixer ring setup. I'll get some details off the converter when I have a look out there later. I'm pretty sure the converter is going to be the highest point of the cooling system by a long shot. I'll slightly crack one of the coolant hoses to it and see if I get any air. I've driven it to work a few times where the temperature is about zero before and it's never leaned out. So Im betting the converter is turning to a block of ice due to air in it's circuit.

It's been so cold here over the last few months, the sucker is struggling to even open it's thermostat given the extreme over-cooling it's getting.

seeya,
Shane L.

Converter freezing up tends to stop the vehicle entirely as the converter drowns your engine with liquid LPG. My guess is that your problem is related to the temperature of the LPG stream and therefore its pressure. Some converters I've met are really really bad at dealing with a liquid stream that breaks into a string of bubbles as you draw at it from the front. OMVL converters do this easily and have been known to drive their owners nuts. I threw one out the other day off a 4.5 litre Cruiser with an intermittent sag at around 3000 rpm. It didn't do it from new, it had only been misbehaving for a few months (coincidentally over a cold winter?).

The best converter with good capacity in difficult conditions is the Poliauto, but they are physically big and expensive new. I see them second hand on ebay from time to time. They're usually good for up to 6 litre engines but are found on OEM style aftermarket installs on some 4.0 Falcons, marketed by Parnell. I stuck one on a 460 cubic inch big block F350 tow truck last year and the owner is quite happy with it. 351's love them. There are many other brands of converter around, some of which may be better than yours.

can't see a name on the converter.... None of it's real old .... maybe 10,000kms ... 1->2 years old.

the converter looks like it has OMVL R90 /E on it ... the mixer ring is sprint MOT1505

It runs very nicely other than the leaning out in extreme cold and full load 4200+rpm..... which I guess doesn't really matter, 'cos there's not much point in revving it that hard.

Edit; Hah! that's funny, you picked the converter just by my description of how it runs!

seeya,
Shane L.

move the converter nearer the exhaust and shroud it from the fan or fit a radiator blanket, 75% shadecloth directly on the radiator works well

you could also pull the fan while its cold and rely on just the thermos for the AC or fit a PWM thermo fan and controller.

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

move the converter nearer the exhaust and shroud it from the fan or fit a radiator blanket, 75% shadecloth directly on the radiator works well

you could also pull the fan while its cold and rely on just the thermos for the AC or fit a PWM thermo fan and controller.

Funny you mention that. I have noticed the clutch on the fan doesn't warm enough to freewheel until I get to the end of the street we live in .... It then heats enough to stop spinning. Today it was still roaring away until I pulled up at work. The ambient temperature entering the bonnet area was cold enough that the fan never stopped spinning. Yes the fan clutch does work normally. I remember on hot days last summer it would roar away once there was some heat soak under the bonnet for it to work normally.

Removing the fan for winter is probably a reasonable idea. Given these were a pommy vehicle, I would have thought it being cold (and wet ) outside shouldn't worry them at all!

On my 10minute trip to work through the bush this morning the coolant didn't even get to 30degrees ( the transmission oil about the same). The engine itself was likely at full running temperature, but how would you know when the gauge senders are downstream of the thermostat

seeya,
Shane L.

easiest thing when it is really cold is the old style radiator muff. closes half or all of the radiator. if you are really slack a chaff bag or piece of hessian is just as good.

I will preface this by saying I know little about Gas.

However, I have driven a RRC of about 86 vintage with carbs and TWO converters on a 4.6 and it was dead above about 4500 RPM.

I put it down to the restriction of the gas rings reducing the inlet cross section so much that air flow was restricted.

Could this be the problem with yours?
Regards Philip A