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Thread: Petrol vs LPG payback calculator

  1. #31
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    VEEEEEERY interesting figures.

  2. #32
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    My figures don't appear on that spreadsheet. Did yours?

    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    I dont mind living with the converter as is, but if you had to replace it every time it got contaminated you would quickly erode the costs savings.
    Why not pull it apart and clean it? I did that once on my previous LPG install.
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  3. #33
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    I dont want to do it myself mate. I do a lot of things myself, but wont mess with the converter. Out of interest though what solvent did you use to clean yours without distroying or causing shorter life of the diaphragms?

    CHEERS

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    I dont want to do it myself mate. I do a lot of things myself, but wont mess with the converter. Out of interest though what solvent did you use to clean yours without distroying or causing shorter life of the diaphragms?

    CHEERS
    Carby and throttle body cleaner will shift most LPG deposits. Careful though it stinks something shocking and you should use gloves. In one case of repeated contamination I made a hose adaptor and poured the carby cleaner into the gas inlet, reconnected the LPG line and then ran the converter. Seemed to help.

    Ordinary degreaser will dissolve only the softer deposits. I use both when cleaning out converters. Neither attacks rubber to any degree.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    I dont want to do it myself mate. I do a lot of things myself, but wont mess with the converter. Out of interest though what solvent did you use to clean yours without distroying or causing shorter life of the diaphragms?

    CHEERS
    I used carby cleaner. Bee Utey would be the best man to ask as to what to use.

    I've had no problems working on converters - but I've only worked on three.

    I've replaced diaphragms twice in this Rangie - one on the previous venturi system LPG install and one on the the present injected install. The latter was whilst looking for a fault that turned out to be a MAP sensor that was temperature sensitive. I'd already replaced the sensor to no avail. The replacement sensor had the same fault. Only I could buy a replacement that was faulty (see my faulty goods thread).
    Ron B.
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    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  6. #36
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    A lot of the figures are the same as the example figures . I bet just like me, a few just stuck in the figures expecting to get a readout at the end....

    Using Capitals, the difference between helping your Uncle Jack off a horse or helping your uncle jack off a horse...

  7. #37
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    Thanks Gents - Beeutey - funny you should say that cause I used carby cleaner to clean my intake runner and throttle body yesterday. I also used CRC Maf clean to clean the MAF cause the breather line from the head to the intake on the air box was sucking engine oil vapour into the MAF - nice. I understood that the breather was for LPG vapours. I think I will just put an inline air filter in the breather pipe for the engine and block off the hole in the air box intake.

    I will try the carb cleaner in the LPG intake trick - I take it its a case of spraying a heap of it in and then the intake pipe straight back on and tightened and start her up, letting the venturi action draw through and burn all the crap? I will have to warm it up before spraying of course.

    Cheers

  8. #38
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    Payback time for mine is 13 weeks all worked out without any calculator needed!

    I've had mine in for just on 3 months now and it has almost reached break even point. Used to cost $100 a week in petrol, now costs $40 a week for gas travelling the same distance, $60 a week saved x 12 weeks = $720, cost after rebate was $760. Mind you I'm doing 450km a week with half of that highway albeit at 80km/h (because we all know that your brain will implode if you go faster than that in an S3)

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift View Post
    this should draw out the rattlers,,,

    https://spreadsheets.google.com/view...DQ4NzA5YWI&ifq
    Well, it would if the spreadsheet actually worked ! The reults it returns are not drived from the info entered.

    So ....

    I've attached a spreadsheet that will allow you to do a quick comparison between Petrol, LPG & Diesel for average PA (per anum) costs ... you can figure the payback period

    ... you can see that even though the diesel is marginally more per year to run, the range per fill is more than double ... Where's that LPG bowser in the middle of the Simpson ?

    I reckon the LPG payback time, dependant on the rebate you get, may only be 2-3 years (assuming a D2 V8) ... however, converting a V8 D2 to LPG versus just buying a Diesel is going to be 10+ years before you are in a payback situation ... do V8's last that long in a D2 ?

    Caveat - figures used in the spreadsheet are fuel prices as at today at my local BP - Mileages used are as best as I can remeber.

    ... back to you
    Attached Files Attached Files
    Kev..

    Going ... going ... almost gone ... GONE !! ... 2004 D2a Td5 Auto "Classic Country" Vienna Green

    2014 MUX LST with fruit
    2015 Kimberley Kamper "Classic"

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by ozscott View Post
    Thanks Gents - Beeutey - funny you should say that cause I used carby cleaner to clean my intake runner and throttle body yesterday. I also used CRC Maf clean to clean the MAF cause the breather line from the head to the intake on the air box was sucking engine oil vapour into the MAF - nice. I understood that the breather was for LPG vapours. I think I will just put an inline air filter in the breather pipe for the engine and block off the hole in the air box intake.

    I will try the carb cleaner in the LPG intake trick - I take it its a case of spraying a heap of it in and then the intake pipe straight back on and tightened and start her up, letting the venturi action draw through and burn all the crap? I will have to warm it up before spraying of course.

    Cheers
    The important thing about getting tb cleaner in is to depressurise the converter first. Run the engine warm, leave it idling, then disconnect the wire to the main gas lock in the gas feed pipe and let it stall. The pipe will be empty and the gas converter will have its first stage regulator seat open. Make an adaptor to inject tb cleaner with the little tube that most spray cans come with. Clear vinyl tube and a grommet say. When you have got some in reconnect the feed line and gas lock wire, restart on petrol, flick over at revs and flush the cleaner through.

    You can also spray cleaner into the gas outlet fitting then remove the drain plug. This helps clean out the main chamber.

    BTW what converter type is yours? Many converters have only philips head screws on the low pressure side because servicing is a regular procedure. The electric valve on most is also easily removed and dismantled for cleaning.

    As for breathers, most fitters don't understand the purpose of the relocation. It is supposed to prevent combustible gas-air mixture being drawn into the rocker cover (=BOOM!). On most LR engines (D1's especially) the breather always delivers fumes out so should be left on the throttle body port where the manufacturer had it. In any case it should always be downstream of the MAF.

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