Crump & Cornish

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Originally Posted by Mick_Marsh

I have spent a motsa so far and I'm still not convinced they are the right parts.
Yep. Same part number as in the RPS but I don't see how they interact with the adjusters and there is still no method of attaching the hand brake. These are the brakes for my BAE Systems trailer. They use the same chassis as the Crump & Cornish.
Attachment 139099


Interestingly, My Crump & Cornish has different brakes.
Attachment 139100


Yes, John, photos of your brakes would be very helpful. Please post some up.

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I have the photo's on my phone ... now just have to figure out how to get them on here since I bailed out of Photobucket when they wanted their financial bucket filled to host photo's. The brakes on my trailer look to be the same as the ones on your BAE Systems trailer Mick. Certainly has the two locating pivot pins at the bottom and the top spring hooks to each brake shoe through a hole in each (as opposed to going to a pin on the backing plate like some drums I've seen). Might get some time tomorrow to work out the (free) photo hosting issue.
Cheers

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Originally Posted by JayBoRover

I have the photo's on my phone ... now just have to figure out how to get them on here since I bailed out of Photobucket when they wanted their financial bucket filled to host photo's. The brakes on my trailer look to be the same as the ones on your BAE Systems trailer Mick. Certainly has the two locating pivot pins at the bottom and the top spring hooks to each brake shoe through a hole in each (as opposed to going to a pin on the backing plate like some drums I've seen). Might get some time tomorrow to work out the (free) photo hosting issue.
Cheers

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Flickr works very well.

Would a set of 12" caravan brakes work. You can buy backing plates complete with drums, shoes, whole kit and caboodle from trailer parts suppliers for next to nothing.
Good luck
LuckyLes

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Originally Posted by LuckyLes

Would a set of 12" caravan brakes work. You can buy backing plates complete with drums, shoes, whole kit and caboodle from trailer parts suppliers for next to nothing.
Good luck
LuckyLes

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You got a link?

Mick - how about this site? (It's Australian which is a bonus):

http://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-techn...c-drum-brakes/

Click on Electric Brake Drums

Scroll down - Part 417120
12" x 2"
Land Rover 4 x 6.5" PCD

or

417130
12" x 2"
Range Rover / Land Rover Defender
5 x 6.5" (5/8" Wheel Studs)

???

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Originally Posted by grey_ghost

Click on Electric Brake Drums

Scroll down - Part 417120
12" x 2"
Land Rover 4 x 6.5" PCD

or

417130
12" x 2"
Range Rover / Land Rover Defender
5 x 6.5" (5/8" Wheel Studs)

???

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They're just the drums

I'll have a closed look at the backing plates tonight. Are you ok with going electric?
Me, I'm after hydraulic.

Yeah, I wouldn’t go with electric units. I doubt you’d get a drum to fit the existing stub axles to be honest - the C&C has huge stubs. The drums for standard trailers like this aren’t like what’s on your trailers - the drum runs the bearings in it, it doesn’t fit over an existing hub like you need. You’ll be better off looking at vehicle brakes not trailer brakes.

The Alko site shouild give you what you need, but it will depend on how original you want to keep it. If you want it as a user, rather than a showpiece, then i would think that you would be best to go to a marine type disc brake, as on a boat trailer if you are doing water crossings, other wise a 12" electric caravan drum brake would give you the better brakes. Either way you will need to do some mods.
Good luck
LuckyLes

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Originally Posted by LuckyLes

The Alko site shouild give you what you need, but it will depend on how original you want to keep it. If you want it as a user, rather than a showpiece, then i would think that you would be best to go to a marine type disc brake, as on a boat trailer if you are doing water crossings, other wise a 12" electric caravan drum brake would give you the better brakes. Either way you will need to do some mods.
Good luck
LuckyLes

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Yes. I have seen conversions done on C&C trailers.
To do as you suggest, the axle will need to be replaced. That's how I got my spare axle.

I'm thinking, a better way to convert would be to just replace the backing plate, cylinders and shoes. The difficult thing is to find a suitable bolt on replacement with a handbrake.