I have mine set so that they're four stroking lightly with no load and clean up during the cut.
Two reasons, I hate a two stroke screaming with no load and my saws have rev limiters which makes tuning with no-load a bit of a nonsense IMO.
The book says lean it off until it's hitting 13,500 and just starting to bounce off the limiter but a rev-limited coil makes it hard to pick the difference between the fours stroke and the rev cut so I tune them in timber, it's too easy to have them lean and bouncing off the limiter and you thinking it's still four stroking.
If the saw is modified at all you can't use that as a tuning point anymore anyway.
IMO with our eucs I reckon it pays to be a hair on the fat side considering the amount of time you can spend in the cut too.
the ethanol blends i have heard will root the rubber hoses/diaframs and make some plastic fittings brittle how true this is i cant say haveing never tryed it
better late then never a few pics and vid of my 2100 husky im still keen to do a tutorial on basic tuneing if anyone wants to volintear to record it
YouTube - ‪husky 2100cd‬‏
It's important to check the crankcase seals on older 2 strokes . The crankcase is pressurised in order for the fuel mixture to be pushed up through the transfer port into the cylinder . They typically have seals each side of the crankshaft where it exits the crankcase. eg flywheel and starter . Over time , the seals leak and this affects performance greatly .
Mike
the seals go hard and leak also the gasket between the crank case half's leak also and if it has a Bakelite carb spacer they can crack as well but these problems are generally found on older machines that have been siting around un used
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