Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Not landrover but any advice would be good.

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cranbourne North
    Posts
    1,929
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Unhappy Not landrover but any advice would be good.

    We have a KH 1992 laser. It has a electrical problem in the ignition some were. So far. New battery, new coil, new ignition module, new dizzy cap, new rotor button, and a set of new leads. Also got a newer distributor and the plugs were not done that long ago. Turns over ok and there is fuel where it should be but it still won`t start. Sooooo any thoughts, any thing else that could be looked at? Did land rover at some stage around the early ninety`s secretly pass onto ford there vast knowledge of automotive electrics?
    Cheers Hall

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Carby or EFI? If carby you should be able to hotwire the coil +ve if there isn't 12V there. Use a test light to see if the coil negative is pulsing with rotation. The dissy can be removed to test this. Check the coil output with a split pin etc, then see if the rotor button has failed (burnt through) by holding the coil lead near it. New ones can be dead out of the box sometimes.

    Also with carbies, they won't start well if the idle solenoid has failed, check it is clicking "on" with the key.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    St Helena,Melbourne
    Posts
    16,777
    Total Downloaded
    1.13 MB
    If its had a new dizzy put in then i would guess at the timing being out, get it to TDC and take the dizzy cap off of check if it lines up with cyl. number 1, if still doesnt start then it may be 180 degree's out.
    MY08 TDV6 SE D3- permagrin ooh yeah
    2004 Jayco Freedom tin tent
    1998 Triumph Daytona T595
    1974 VW Kombi bus
    1958 Holden FC special sedan

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cranbourne North
    Posts
    1,929
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks for the reply s folks. Dizzy has a one way only fit, so should not be 180 degrees out. It is a carby, so will check the fuel solenoid. Not a standard round coil but has got power to and from it. Have got a decent zap from the spark plugs so I can say with reasonable surety that side is working You just can`t beat hands on testing.
    Cheers Hall

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Crafers West South Australia
    Posts
    11,732
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If there's a possibility of water in the fuel, prop open the auto choke and use a bit of aerostart/start-ya-barstud.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Gosnells
    Posts
    6,148
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Did you say that the dizzy only fits in one way? - That's the casing, the outside... how about the internal shaft with a gear or cog or whatever on the bottom end... THAT can be 180 out. - Don't ask how I know...

    Go back to the hands-on approach and rotate the engine by hand till the compression pushes your finger off #1 spark-plug hole. shine a torch down the hole or poke a stick inside... to make sure its at Top Dead Centre. Also look at your timing mark etc. Shoiuld be TDC. Look at your rotor button, it should be pointing at or just a bit past #1 position if the cap was still on it...

    Put it all back together and try again. - Keep fingers away from where you did'nt last time ......

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Cranbourne North
    Posts
    1,929
    Total Downloaded
    0
    superquag thanks for your reply. The dizzy has a offset spade connection to the end of the cam shaft. The good news is the clunker is a goer now. Was led down the wrong path of thinking by the auto elec. It was he who siad that it was a ignition problem. Turns out that the ignition circut stays live until you turn the key to start then it is dead no power. I got a zap while the key was still in the ignition position. So have run a bypass wire from the ignition switch to a relay which takes power direct from the battery to the coil. This bypasses some dead wiring some were in the loom. The ignition switch needs replacing as well. This may have been part of the problem, but I don`t think so At the moment when you turn the switch to start the contacts are worn, so it takes a couple of turns of the key be fore it starts. So you get some one you think would know and they don`t.
    Cheers Hall

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!