Thread: Diesel engine problems

Headlights work as do indicators, brake lights, reverse lights etc.

I'm hearing a decent 'clunk' from relays when key goes from acc to on. When I key further to start the park and brake lights remain on, however the diff lock light goes out. Probably unrelated, perhaps even normal but it does. The voltmeter in the car also takes a while - 20 or more seconds to come up to 12v. Ive not have a voltmeter before so is that normal?

Sean.
Try shorting the +VE terminal on the starter motor to the trigger on the starter solenoid.MAKE SURE ITS IN NEUTRAL.With key off it should turn over but not start,with key on it will start if its able to do so.
If it wont turn over you need to check if the motor is seized by turning it over by hand,put a suitable socket on the crank bolt and see if it will move.
Is it an auto???,if so try neutral instead of park,may be a neutral start issue.

PS.I will get this thread shifted to the correct area,non Land Rover Tech chat.
Andrew

I ran a piece of battery cable to the starter and didn't get anything. First time it clicked, after that nothing. So, makes me believe it has a dead starter, on top of all the other problems, or just hiding a different one.

It is a manual. We managed to get the engine to turn by towing it. But it would just turn over, not start. However some people have said that may have been to having a dead battery (cactus not just flat) in the car as it wouldn't have allowed the fuel shut off to open

Have you tried connecting a jumper lead from battery -ve to engine block? Slight click then nothing smacks of bad earth to me.

Steve

I did for a few attempts, then went back to the original earth as it was no change.

The part that has me beat is the no coil light on the dash, no low pressure light, nothing. Only two lights on the dash are Park brake and brake light.

To confirm what I have done.
Went for a tow start with a dead battery (no lights what so ever, battery ended up having 50CCA and 5.6v) with no luck - have since been told it may require some battery to open th fuel shot offs.
Replaced with new battery.
Checked all the earths.
Cleaned batty terminals to be double sure.
Ran battery cabling to starter motor with no click or turn.
Checked I am getting 12v to starter and 12v across starter solenoids.
Removed glow plugs and they were dry.
Checked to see if the glow plugs were getting power when car was keyed to on - it wasn't. (Did this with potentiometer, negative on battery, positive on glow plug wires on engine.)
headlights and all other lifts work.

Next: re earth the car. If I can, remove the starter but it is in a dog of a position, I tried yesterday and failed. Check the ignition circuit for any faulty wiring.

Besides that, im thinking try for another tow start with the new battery now onboard.

Do the headlights dim slightly when you try and crank the engine? Have you measured the voltage at the starter terminals?

Aaron

At the starter it was 12v with key to on. Haven't tried with it cranking or with key off, only one of me so not really possible.

I haven't had the headlights on and tried. I'll give that a go next time, what's your thoughts beyond that?

I'm going to give it a rest for today, actually go out 4wd in my disco and enjoy myself. My merc is in the shop getting a new set of headers and cats so will have a nice new upgrade tomorrow to look forward to

Hi there... I'm guessing that being a 98 it is the older 4M40 engine with mechanical fuel injection... If you have no oil light etc, it points to me that an engine related fuse is blown.. Going back to basics, does it crank over at all or is it solid? If it cranks does it sound even and normal (similar to the disco when cranking)? If it turns over as it should (even sound indicating compression on all 4 cyl), then start looking at the supply to the fuel pump (both diesel and electric).. There should be an audible 'click' from the fuel injection pump when the IGN is turned on... If not then give the 'shut off solenoid' on the fuel injection pump a direct feed from the battery with a fuse in the line at the battery +VE. Test that it clicks. If it does, try a 'start'. If it does not fire up, loosen the injector supply lines. Crank again. You should get fuel dribbling/pulsing out of the loosened unions. If you have fuel here, it should fire up once tightened.. If not, you'll have to look further back. The worry is that it was 'driven home' with no power and lots of smoke..

I hate the stuff, and refuse to have it in the workshop, but.. In an unknown engine that has the chance of being rooted, have you tried giving it a small whiff of Aero Start?.... Just enough to see if it thinks about firing up..

Good luck and let us know how you go/what you find...