Patch both tyre and tube then carry on driver.
So one of my really old very cracked but not very warn tractor tyres has a puncture. The wheel has a built in weight which will make it too heavy for me to remove on my own.
The questions I have are:
1. do cracked sidewalls in tractor tyres increase the risk of punchers. If so by how much?
2. can I change just 1 tyre. This will give me slightly different diameters across the axel. Is this a bad thing to do with a tractor?
I'm looking at $400 to replace the tube and $1,500 to fit a new tyre.
My previous tractor had old tyres that were cracked with chunks braking away. They lasted over 7 years like that without a puncture.
Patch both tyre and tube then carry on driver.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
It is not necessary to remove wheel from tractor. Jack up the tractor ,and chock with substantial blocks,and proceed to bash the bead with a 14lb sledge hammer, followed by a
strong pinch bar.
Only pull off one side of tyre,push the valve through and pull out tube ,if old it may be rusted to wheel so use some vigour.
As Ian said ,patch tube and tyre. Make your own tyre patch using rubber belt or mudflap and several little coach bolts on the inside with nut sticking out ,and Robert is your father's brother.
Pressure about 12PSI
dave
If it is only a small leak a couple of litres of that green slime puncture repair may be enough to keep you going for a while.
It will cost you about $20 to try it, WAY cheaper than a &400 tube and you don't have to do Battle with that thumping big tyre
If it doesn't work you will have only blown $20, If it does do the job then
![]()
You only get one shot at life, Aim well
2004 D2 "S" V8 auto, with a few Mods gone
2007 79 Series Landcruiser V8 Ute, With a few Mods.
4.6m Quintrex boat
20' Jayco Expanda caravan gone
As Dave said, don't take the wheel off. I've found the easiest way to break the bead, is to use wooden wedges, about 4" long, 2" high and wide.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
Are you sure it has a puncture?
I've got a MF 165 with original tyres, wheel weights and water in the tyres.
One of the rears had a leak and I found that it was just the valve leaking.
DL
If it is filled with water you will need to drain it first, as they hold upwards of 150-200 litres depending on the size and they are very heavy handle.
Cheers, Mick.
1974 S3 88 Holden 186.
1971 S2A 88
1971 S2A 109 6 cyl. tray back.
1964 S2A 88 "Starfire Four" engine!
1972 S3 88 x 2
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-014
1959 S2 88 ARN 111-556
1988 Perentie 110 FFR ARN 48-728 steering now KLR PAS!
REMLR 88
1969 BSA Bantam B175
I have a few of these I use for spreading steel framework. Might do the job.
Plastic Wedges -
plastic wedge.jpg
Good point. I'll check out the valve first. At least I know I can do that on by myself.
I'm a bit nervous about jacking the wheel up and then hitting it with a sledge hammer. I guess I'm use to dealing with cars and push bikes, not tractors.
The tyre is also full of water. I'll make sure I empty the water out first before I do anything else.
If my wheel has built in wheel weights, is there any advantage to having the tube filled with water? I only use my tractor for mulching and rear forks, why do I need extra weight in the tyres?
With the valve at the 12 o'clock position, look for a wet mark. The water is to improve traction and will also be a counterweight when using the rear lift. Are you sure there is a tube in the tyre? Don't remove the water unless you have to, it's a PIA to replace.
If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
| Search AULRO.com ONLY! |
Search All the Web! |
|---|
|
|
|
Bookmarks