Thread: Optimising a batteries - starter with twin aux

#2 Aux ‘portable’ I would connect it i would use Anderson plugs keeps it nice and simple.

Not sure your solar input is in the correct spot, I would have it covered next to #1 Aux....or

do you planning charge the #2 Aux when it’s away from the car. In this case I would use Anderson plugs again and have the regulator at the solar shop panel than you have options where you charge. Assuming you have portable solar.

Originally Posted by weeds

#2 Aux ‘portable’ I would connect it i would use Anderson plugs keeps it nice and simple.

Not sure your solar input is in the correct spot, I would have it covered next to #1 Aux....or

do you planning charge the #2 Aux when it’s away from the car. In this case I would use Anderson plugs again and have the regulator at the solar shop panel than you have options where you charge. Assuming you have portable solar.

Aux 2 is in a Ark pack and is already Anderson enabled, it gets left behind if I need to take the car away from camp so the rest of the tribe has power & lighting. What I was getting at is more the optimal way to link batteries in parallel.....something which is pretty hard to do with an isolator, I think. Any good work I do is undone in shared mode due to the fact I need an earth both sides (Starter vs Aux) in isolated mode.


NOT OPTIMAL




OPTIMAL

Hi Fubar and if you intend to draw constant loads of 50+ amps for long periods of time, then the OPTIMAL connects would be the way to go, and by long periods of time, I am talking about hours at a time.


The thing is, unless you are living in a luxury yachting or large motor home, where such high and higher current draws are common place, and where 200+ amp alternators are used to recharge the batteries, you will gain no advantage from the OPTIMAL over the NOT OPTIMAL cabling setup.


99% of RVers will have no issues when using the NOT OPTIMAL setup, because it is highly unlikely, even when using a winch, that you will ever draw high current continually for long periods, not just a few minutes.


Your batteries will charge and discharge at slightly different current levels but the current difference is very small and they will always equalise in a very short period of time.

Originally Posted by drivesafe

Hi Fubar and if you intend to draw constant loads of 50+ amps for long periods of time, then the OPTIMAL connects would be the way to go, and by long periods of time, I am talking about hours at a time.


The thing is, unless you are living in a luxury yachting or large motor home, where such high and higher current draws are common place, and where 200+ amp alternators are used to recharge the batteries, you will gain no advantage from the OPTIMAL over the NOT OPTIMAL cabling setup.


99% of RVers will have no issues when using the NOT OPTIMAL setup, because it is highly unlikely, even when using a winch, that you will ever draw high current continually for long periods, not just a few minutes.


Your batteries will charge and discharge at slightly different current levels but the current difference is very small and they will always equalise in a very short period of time.

Thanks for dropping and providing some solid advice....if find all your advice on this forum invaluable.

Cheers,

Jason