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Thread: Repair cracked sump without removal

  1. #11
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    Maybe if I heat it with the oxy and burn the oil off inside the crack then the JB might stick. Might be worth a try first then the Sikaflex if it fails.

  2. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    Maybe if I heat it with the oxy and burn the oil off inside the crack then the JB might stick. Might be worth a try first then the Sikaflex if it fails.
    Maybe risky don't want to set off an explosion in the sump . It's a tricky one.

  3. #13
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    Maybe a heat gun not oxy?
    John

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    That might work too.
    I have an engine wash gun thing works off air. If I put a hose on the end of that I can get it in the drain hole and wash out the inside. That will get the oil out. Then maybe petrol to get the diesel out then heat gun to evaporate the petrol.

    Keith

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    Quote Originally Posted by 123rover50 View Post
    That might work too.
    I have an engine wash gun thing works off air. If I put a hose on the end of that I can get it in the drain hole and wash out the inside. That will get the oil out. Then maybe petrol to get the diesel out then heat gun to evaporate the petrol.

    Keith
    What could possibly go wrong?
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    When I tig old oily aluminium I cook it slowly with the oxy until it stops smoking. I then wire brush it, rinse, lather and repeat until it stops grunging up. At that point I'd flux and 45% silver solder, or let it cool, clean with clear PVC priming fluid (a 50/50 mix of acetone and MEK) then JB weld.

    As long as you don't get it too hot, the oil will slowly cook off. Chlorinated brake cleaner would also be a good cleaner. Just don't heat it until you are dead sure it's all gone or it'll turn into phosgene and you'll wind up dead.
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  7. #17
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    drain the oil
    clean it
    drill the ends of the crack
    cut a plate thats nicely oversize
    wire brush it.

    mig weld the plate on.

    fill it with oil.

    done (if you got it right)
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  8. #18
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    I would do that Dave if I could get the sump off but I cant without taking the engine out which at this stage of my life I dont want to do. And welding upside down is not my forte.
    I cant work out why a right angled crack like that would appear anyway. It looks like a stress fracture but nothing outside could do it. I am wondering if there is something on the inside causing it. I will put my borescope up the bunghole and have a look today.
    Keith

  9. #19
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    If nothing has hit it, I would guess it is ultimately the result of a defect in the steel used to make the sump, probably a slag inclusion or similar.
    John

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    1986 110 County 3.9 diesel
    1970 2a 109 2.25 petrol

  10. #20
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    Had a bit of a look with my borescope but could not see anything. It is not dinged in or anything and there is a big bashplate bolted on underneath. The crack could be a defect as you say John and been there for a while but slowly getting bigger.
    Drilled holes at the ends and flushed with diesel using air with a plastic pipe and nozzle affair that squirts 4 jets at right angles. Tends to atomise so had to stop after sucking in too many fumes.
    Getting a garden type pump spray and some turps tomorrow when I go to town. Will give it a flood type wash with that. Turpentine is a non petroleum solvent as you know ,so after it dries I will heat with a gas torch to get rid of any remains then on with the JB. See what happens.
    Keith

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