Thread: Repair cracks in agricultural tyres

Hi Graeme,

These people have what looks like a cyanoacrylate/super glue that glues up side wall damage then a patch on top, it all looks a bit dodgy to me, but might be worth asking.
Tractor Kit – GlueTread Australia

I would also contact,
Rema TipTop
Henkle (Loctite), they have a technical enquiry form on their website,
Sika, I have rung and spoken to their technical people before and they have been very helpful.

Have you spoken to an ag tyre place? Given the price, big tractor tyres must get repaired, but quite possibly a hot vulcanising process.

I have see on an old Leyland Bros movie using some sort of rubber putty stuff for repairing low pressure tyres they used on a Cape York trip in the 60s or 70s.
I've seen similar stuff in YouTubes of third world people repairing tyres that properly shouldn't have been repaired.
I have no idea what it is.

Tony

Thanks TonyC for you comments. I had seen GlueTread's tractor kit but dismissed it as I wouldn't want to apply so many patches. I looked at the various sealants in Bunnings today but didn't think that any would be suitable. However I've since re-assessed the damage and as to how it occurred.

I now think that because the tyres were rotating in the wrong direction that the cracks are simply where the rubber has been worn away by soil forced past the end of the other side block, not that the blocks have been pulled off the case. Rotating in the reverse direction forces the soil inwards rather than outwards where it is easily discarded. Hence I wouldn't expect the voids to close under the weight of the header nor by the force pulling the header forwards and therefore just a filler that sticks well enough is required to keep out the debris.

2 years ago during the very wet harvest the header couldn't climb a slight incline that was slippery on top of a hard underneath layer as the tread just filled with the slippery top layer, unable to clear it away. However on dry soil the tyres grip adequately but still accumulate soil in the centre where the blocks meet.

header tyre cracks A.jpg

It looks like canola stem damage to me.

I would also recommend Rema Tip top. They will have an answer for you.
Don.

Originally Posted by shack

It looks like canola stem damage to me.

Lupin stalks do much more damage but regardless I'm sure that the damage occurred because the tyres were on backwards, drawing soil and material into the centre rather than spreading it outwards.
My concern is that lupin stalks could penetrate the case, as has happend to me before.

Originally Posted by Graeme

Lupin stalks do much more damage but regardless I'm sure that the damage occurred because the tyres were on backwards, drawing soil and material into the centre rather than spreading it outwards.
My concern is that lupin stalks could penetrate the case, as has happend to me before.

We have similar damage on a header, tyres are on the correct way.

I've thought about using urethane, but I'm not sure what the outcome would be, I guess considering the cost of tyres, it's worth a go?
I'd be interested to see what results you get for sure.

Both Crommelim Hybrid MS polyurethane sealant and Selleys 630 Low Modulus elastic hybrid sealant sold by Bunnings look like they might be useful if they stick well enough. The cracks now won't get any load driving forwards but will still have to withstand driving over dead lupin stalks. Canola stalks aren't an issue as they're still half green when picking-up windrows.
The old tyres on my previous header had lots of splits all over the tread prior to the demise of one, but these tyres are quite heavy duty with the header twice the weight plus the heavy draper front and generally in good condition so hopefully I can fill the gaps. I saw the notes the original owner made in this header's operator's book when he decided on the tyres and IIRC they were around $5K each perhaps 5 or 6 years ago.

I'm trying Selleys Flexiseal multipurpose polyurethane sealant for it's harder compound but with less flexibility on 1 tyre and Selleys 630 low modulus elastic hybrid sealant for it's greater flexibility but a softer compound on the other. Both adhered well to the tyres during application, with 630 more liquid making it more willing to sink to the bottom of the voids but less inclined to stay in place when applied thickly past vertical. Tyres are 3/4 done and won't be moved back into the shed for 2 days prior to forecast showers to allow some curing, then the remaining voids filled when its again dry weather.