Just came across this, I have not read all the replies thoroughly (lost interest) so forgive me if I repeat, or contradict, others:
With regard to vertical welds, some electrodes work very well going down, others need to be used going up. A rod that works exceptionally well for vertical DOWN welds is the WIA 12p general purpose rod. I use these for all my stick welding unless i need a low carbon electrode, in which case the WIA 16tc is a good choice. If you use the CIG 'satincraft' rods, you will need to do your vertical welds going UP, and the technique is totally different.
for a vertical DOWN weld using the WIA 12p, hold the rod at about a 35-45degree angle from the horizontal pointing up under the bead of the weld, and draw the weld downward in one straight even flow. If you need more width, layer it just as you would a fillet weld on the horizontal. Once you have used these rods, you will not want anything else for vertical welds.
If you insist on using the satincraft (seems most popular with the handyman for some reason), vertical UP welds are done by working back and forth across the job, effectively building up a series of short horizontal welds. For example, to weld a vertical crack, you would start atthe bottom, strike the arc about 10mm to one side of the crack, weld across to 10mm the other side, move the arc up a few mm (with a momentary pause to keep it hot), back across on top of the bead you just laid, upagain on the other side and back across- sort of like laying a pile of matchsticks on edge on top of one another. You end up with a fat weld across the front of the crack. The weld has to be kept quite hot or you get slag inclusions. Much more difficult than a vertical DOWN weld done with a rod suited to the purpose.
If you use the WIA 16tc low-hydrogen electrode, they start very easily on the first use, but when you stop they glaze over at the tip- to start again with the same rod, I scrape the tip on the concrete floor first to remove the glaze.
Pete


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