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Thread: Draining SU Carbs in a Triumph TR4A

  1. #1
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Draining SU Carbs in a Triumph TR4A

    G'day all,

    My old man had his 65 TR4A rebuilt. When I say rebuilt I mean it spent 10 years with a rivet counter who dismantled it back to constituent parts and re-built it from the ground up as a brand new car in showroom (not concourse) condition. It is bloody spectacular.

    Unfortunately between my son and my dad getting cancer and dying, it's not had a lot of use in the last 5 years (there are 887 miles on the odometer - yes that was rebuilt also).

    It has a pair of SU HS6 carbs and when new it ran like a clock. Unfortunately a series of sunday drives saw repeated carbs full of fuel evaporating. So much so the needle on the front carb looks more like rust than needle (it's really bad gum and crap).

    So, I'll sort that, but the use of the vehicle isn't likely to become more frequent and therefore we'll have plenty of sunday drives which then evaporate over the next couple of weeks filling the carb with residue again.

    Does anyone have an old classic that gets this sort of use? How do you drain an SU? I don't really want to put a drain screw into the bottom of each float chamber, but I don't see any other way of draining the carbs when it's not going to be driven for a couple of months.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  2. #2
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    Fitting a drain plug to the float bowl is probably the best way, millions of lawnmowers and small engines have one.
    You could try fitting a fuel tap in the supply line and run the engine until the fuel in the carbies is used up but I'd imagine that there would be some still in the bottom of the bowls.
    Also only run premium fuel and consider running a fuel additive.
    We stopped running the mower, pumps and anything with a petrol engine on the farm on standard unleaded and only use premium as it seems to have less crap in it.

  3. #3
    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    Drain screws was where I was headed. I concur about the fuel. I only buy 98 for all my infrequently used devices. Not because I subscribe to the hype, but it's the fuel that gives me the best results with intermittent use.

    Adding to the problem here is the fuel in the car would have to be years old.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  4. #4
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    put a stop cock on the fuel line and rig a self cancelling relay to the ignition via the oil light switch.

    pull in, turn off the stop cock and let it idle dry. when the engine cuts out from fuel starvation the oil switch turning on will cause the relay to trip out and depower the ignition and itself.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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    BradC is offline Super Moderator
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    A neat solution with the minor issue of not having an oil pressure switch. It has a gauge. No idiot light.

    Given the infrequent use this will get I had thought about a valve in the fuel line. Given how the fuel pump works, in theory if I held the primer lever up to the stop the pump shouldn't pump and I'll get the same result.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradC View Post
    A neat solution with the minor issue of not having an oil pressure switch. It has a gauge. No idiot light.

    Given the infrequent use this will get I had thought about a valve in the fuel line. Given how the fuel pump works, in theory if I held the primer lever up to the stop the pump shouldn't pump and I'll get the same result.
    fit a turbo timer on the ignition and then the fuel valve, other than heat in the engine bay and it doesnt take a lot of pumping to keep a carby filled at idle your theory is sound
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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