Thread: 200 TDi engine....

have a serch of my posts ive done the conversion on my series 3 and it cant really be done in a weekend if you do it properly. you need to do some work on the bellhousing other wise your 200tdi will leak. your gearing will be to short with 4.3 diffs so try find some 3.5s and a overdive. its not a hard job just not a 2 second one like ppl make out.
pm me if you need to know anything.

i did my 200tdi/series3 basic engine swap in 4 days on my own, that included modifying the breakfast and disco rad surround and making my own exhaust from scratch, diffs and overdrive were done at another time...

battery carrier got ground off the chassis and the battery got relocated under the passenger seat..

i didn't redrill and tap the flywheel housing tho, it's now been in for about 18 months with no extra oil leaks..

i also used petrol engine rubbers but got 4 x 3.5mm washers/spacers to put above and below each rubber mount to lift the engine approx a 1/4 inch to help prevent the front pulley hitting the axle when offroad ..

you'll want a double pulley for your alternator and to space the mount forwards 30mm to align the belt, this is using a series alt' mount with a "clocked" disco alt', you'll also need the disco starter motor as the 2.25 diesel starter won't fit due to the turbo oil return pipe reducing the available space...

i ended up using a RRC or defender airbox after cutting the legs off and making my own brackets (with the disco clamps and plastic elbow) to mount it vertically on the timing cover (it sits tight there)...

expansion/header tank came from a volvo 740 turbo and i robbed assorted hoses from engines in the local breakers to cut and shut with small steel inserts to join them (bottom rad hose has 6 jubilee clips on it)

i also turned my 200tdi intercooler upside down and cut approx' 1-1.5" off the new top connection to allow clearance round the radiator...

my electric fan came from a citroen bx turbo diesel and is manually switched via a relay..

i also removed the front pulley and turned it on my lathe to remove the unused V and take a couple of mm off the front V to ensure clearance, if you don't you get them clash and risk destroying your crank...

use a 9.5" friction plate, with the series3 box you can use the disco pressure plate and release bearing, obviously with a series2 box you'll need the series2 pressure plate...

if your Series is a diesel as fitted by the factory complete with diesel ignition switch you'll need to take a seperate switched feed to the stop solenoid as the Series diesel ignition switch cuts all power to everything except the starter when starting, if a petrol you just use the low tension feed to the stop solenoid..

my series3 had a cable operated throttle which simplified things as all i had to do was find a large nut and bolt to drill (2 sizes of drill to hold the cable sheath and allow the inner to run thru) and slot to enable me to attach the one end to the injector pump

if you go thru this p/bucket link you'll see pictures of many/most of the jobs i've done on my Bitsa Zebedee pictures by NiteMare_08 - Photobucket

road biased tyres, overdrive, 3.54 diffs, it will now touch 90mph, i've also recently fitted 11" drums/backplates to the front from a salibury rear axle giving me almost double the braking surface on single leading shoe brakes with non-servo'd single line braking

i hope that helps

p.s.
i hope the p/bucket link works, they've been dicking about with it and lots appears to have changed