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Thread: rangy-v8 in series2a 109

  1. #1
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    rangy-v8 in series2a 109

    hey guys has anyone here put a rover v8 and auto in a series 2a 109. wanting a bit more power but the want to keep it rover.

  2. #2
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    There is an adaptor kit. It is a tight squeeze. However, even if you have a very gentle right foot you WILL break gearboxes.

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    A few of the guys in Sydney used to fit Ford 302 and C4 autos onto series boxes. So there is no reason you couldn't do it, although it would be easier to do with a Rover V8/ZF combination in a SIII Stage 1.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  4. #4
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    can be done Id only go so far as the very early 3.5 spec for power shoving a zf22 modded into a series Tcase.

    you will still want a gentle boot.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  5. #5
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    i see no reason why you can't fit a rangey V8 and auto box..

    i expect you'll have to move the gearbox mount(s), have custom length props made up..
    you'll have to figure out where you can mount the gear selector lever (i'm guessing it's cable linked ) and you may have to modify the bell/flywheel housing crossmember to clear the front prop

    handbrake will take a little sorting as will the floor plates and tunnel/seatbox (maybe use defender items)

    watch out for the front crank pulley striking on the axle/diff housing on compression with a standard chassis, possibly less of a problem with a 1ton/combat chassis with the extended dumb irons and shackles

    no space for the standard cooling fan to the best of my knowledge so i'd put a slimline electric one in front of the rad' (we are talking of retaining the standard Series style front end rather than Stage1/defender aren't we ?? )

    3.54 diffs and preferably a Salisbury rear axle for the extra strength and hopefully a Stage1 front axle for the cv joints (i'd run a uj axle if needs be)

    130 (ANR1534) rims and either 235/85 tyres or 7.50r General S.A.G.s, the S.A.G.s are proper period looking tyres in my opinion

    if money/space/time/parts were no difficulty these are some of my dream ideas, unfortunately the aforementioned all block my experimentation

    oh and it'd either have to be a truck cab or rag top

    i have lots of ideas/thoughts of combination parts but already have a '59 88" that i'm stripping and rebuilding with a 200tdi for a mate and i still have my '70-71 Skippy patiently waiting for me to start on it

    this is my last project, nine month strip and build


    My 1965 109 pictures by NiteMare_08 - Photobucket

  6. #6
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    The NAS Defender 90 auto box would be the way to go although you will have to sacrifice something at one end. Either go the flat front or maybe remove the cross member behind the gearbox, although by using a disk hand brake conversion will allow you to go closer to the x-member.

    You won't find me on: faceplant; Scipe; Infragam; LumpedIn; ShapCnat or Twitting. I'm just not that interesting.

  7. #7
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    i love the recessed front end of the Series motors so would have to keep any modifications towards the rear, if possible i think it would be worth looking for a sixpot chassis as most of the problem crossmembers are already 4" or so rearwards

  8. #8
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    Its not as easy as it sounds if you do it properly, you will be doing a lot of carving up of the body and chassis, you'll more than likely end up without the recessed front facia.

    My advice is to start with a Stage 1 V8 chassis.

    www.slunnie.com :: View topic - Ute2 Reincarnation
    Cheers
    Slunnie


    ~ Discovery II Td5 ~ Discovery 3dr V8 ~ Series IIa 6cyl ute ~ Series II V8 ute ~

  9. #9
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    I always wanted to convert my SIII to a v8, but it was a 6 cyl so it was a tough fit. However, I once found a photo of a good conversion to a 4 cyl.



    The drawbacks, as indicated by Mr Slunnie, are that to use a modern gearbox there is a lot of mods (read engineers reports) required. The other method (at the time, before the advent of the 5 speed) was to use an adaptor plate ( see the 2nd attachment) and use the series gearbox. ALLEGEDLY in the 4 cyl chassis, the engine mounts remained in place. The bigger drawback was pretzel driveshaft syndrome.

    Some years later, I read of enthusiasts in the UK doing a cam change and some racing mods to bring the 2.25 up a little in power - it may be easier to try that.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  10. #10
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    i have just pulled this out of....


    this


    ok it was attached to the standard gearbox with an adaptor ring but it does show that V8s and recessed front panels are easily matched, i know a few folks that have 88" landrovers with this kind of configuration, it's pretty common in England, one mate has a 109 with a similar conversion and an ashcroft hi-ratio transfer box, i think he'll be fitting a gas conversion next

    as i posted earlier i think it would be worth looking at a sixpot chassis as a couple of the crossmembers are already about four inches further backwards, which would hopefully give you the necessary clearances to fit an auto box, the sixpot bulkhead also is deeper into the cab above the bellhousing area which hopefully give space around the rear of the engine, you may still need to trim the passenger footwell

    engine mounts on the chassis would most likely need relocating, so i think i'd scratch build them to suit the original V8 engine mounts/rubbers and of course you'd be having to figure out your gearbox mounts

    i know i'm probably over simplifying, i just haven't the time/space/funds/parts to experiment with

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