Isuzu C240 powered Series 3

**gromit** · 19th November 2012, 06:43 AM

Originally Posted by chazza

If you get the rust out of the worn section and fill the pitting with a two-part epoxy filler and then hand-sand it, I think it will save you the hassle of stripping the spare off.

This method worked on my S3,

Cheers Charlie

Thanks Charlie,

I did that with my Series 1 but it was only a couple of small pits, because this is a continuous band of wear in the straight ahead position I'm going to look at the spare axle.
I'll keep the old ones and repair them with 'plastic metal' anyway, you never know when another project will come along.....

4-Wheel Drives used to get them ground down & re-chromed. Probably cheaper nowadays to import new parts depending on the shipping cost.

Colin

**gromit** · 20th November 2012, 07:17 AM

Stripped the spare front axle last night.

The swivel hub had been re-chromed, good condition but.....like everything else on the SIII D this axle came from it was full of water.
The diff pan has a small hole in it which I spotted when I was parting the vehicle out, the swivel hub & wheel hub had water mixed in with the grease so the bearings are damaged. The outer face of the swivel housing (where the stub axle bolts to) is badly pitted so parts of this axle have led a very hard life.

I may revert to repairing Wallit's swivel hub because at least all the bearings are OK.

Colin

**gromit** · 22nd November 2012, 07:29 PM

Haven't had any time to work on Wallit but he now has a battery (I've been sharing a battery between the S2 109 & Wallit).

I replaced both batteries in the Defender today, they were 4 years old and the deep cycle had karked it. Luckily I have a contact in the battery industry and I got a good price (but had to drive to East Keilor this morning to collect them).
Nice new N70ZZ and a slightly smaller deep cycle fitted.

DSCN1868 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Went to look at an S2a SWB today, turned out to be a 'spares car'. Had a few good panels but the bulkhead was past saving, chassis had been cut & shut to fit a Holden motor.
Thinking about it but I really don't need it......

Colin

**wrinklearthur** · 22nd November 2012, 08:22 PM

Originally Posted by gromit

Went to look at an S2a SWB today,
Thinking about it but I really don't need it......Colin

That's showing some real intestinal fortitude there Colin.

I do like the covers over the battery terminals.

.

**gromit** · 26th November 2012, 07:25 PM

Great trip to Wonnangatta Station at the weekend in the Defender.
A friend of a friend has been in there many times and also owns a Defender. He led I just followed (thanks Frank).

Had a delay on the way out when we found a tree across the track but with the help of a small chainsaw, a couple of axes, a bowsaw and some hard graft we got out.

DSCN1910 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Just need to give the Defender a good clean and get back to working on Wallit.

Colin

**gromit** · 2nd December 2012, 09:15 PM

Found some time to work on Wallit at the weekend.

Front swivel hub stripped & cleaned.

DSCN1919 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Used epoxy metal to fill in the pits in the swivel hub.

DSCN1918 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Carefully sanded the epoxy down so the seal has something to seal on.

DSCN1927 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Fitted the original shims and the pre-load was OK. A new seal was installed with a bead of sealant in the housing to help reduce leaks and then the swivel hub was painted.

The brakeplate has been stripped and is in the process of being painted, both brake cylinders are OK and just need new seals.

Colin

**gromit** · 10th December 2012, 08:11 AM

The front end is taking forever due to work/family commitments.......

Just need to clean up the seal spigot on the stub axle (being done at work today because there is too much junk on the floor in front of my lathe) then it's about ready to be put back together again.
Wheel bearings are OK so they will be re-used, seal kits through the wheel cylinders, new hub seal and I have to 'modify' the drive shaft UJ. I noticed when stripping it down that someone has left the rubber cups on the UJ so lubrication will only be from what oil finds it's way down the grease nipple hole. I'll remove the cups so lubrication is improved.

Then I have to do it all again on the other side, the only positive is that the swivel housing looks in better condition.

I was going to order new seats a while back but at this rate it will be months before I'll need them......

Colin

**gromit** · 16th December 2012, 07:59 AM

One side is now almost back together.
Found another problem but more on that later when I get round to fixing it.

New seals, a few gaskets, some paint and time (whenever I get some free....).

DSCN1948 by Colin Radley, on Flickr

Just have to re-fit the brake shoes, drum and then Wallit is temporarily mobile again. Then to repeat the process on the other side.

Colin

**wrinklearthur** · 16th December 2012, 09:03 AM

Hi Colin

Which type of paint are you using on those parts?

I'm thinking that a epoxy rust preventative type would be the go to do the axle housings, etc for 'HECter' the 86".

Still thinking about a name for my 80", I'll wait for a while as it doesn't have a motor yet and to get one that's good enough to use, for that some $$$$ will need to be torn up and thrown into the pond.
The person that I eventually get a engine from, may have their name attached to the 80" for perpetuity.
.

**gromit** · 16th December 2012, 04:18 PM

Arthur,

I used a spray 'epoxy' paint for some of the parts and brush applied for others. I think it was White Knight brand.

The paint isn't that hard and I found it scratched fairly easy.
It's fairly expensive at most outlets but Master's have recently opened a few stores locally and it's costing under $10 per spray can from them.

I went to put the front wheel on Wallit earlier and thought I'd check the inside of the rim because of the swivel housing leak......Ended up scraping off a couple of kilos of oil & mud that had accumulated and then degreasing.
The swivel seal I originally removed was a split one. There was no steel support in the seal at all , I always thought they were a conventional seal that was sawn through and you twisted it to get it in place. For the sake of undoing 6 bolts & nuts and replacing one gasket I think replacing the seal with a proper one is the way to go.

Colin

Just checked and it's Wattyl rust guard epoxy @ Masters. About $5 per can cheaper than White Knight @ Bunnings.

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