Hi Colin, I hope all is well. I'm going through withdrawal!!!:o any progress since your last post:(
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Hi Colin, I hope all is well. I'm going through withdrawal!!!:o any progress since your last post:(
Hi Steve,Quote:
Originally Posted by dolphint
An Interstate trip, a few health problems, other priorities etc. As long as I keep taking the tablets I'll be OK....
Parts about to be paid for in the UK so more to follow once they arrive.
I'm in the process of re-building a diff centre (just set the pinion pre-load last night) and a steering relay. I'll post some photos soon.
I also have to chase up a couple of parts cars.
Did you have any joy with the V8 County at Red Hill ?
Colin
I've not been spending as much time as I'd like in the shed just lately so I decided to start a couple of smaller jobs where I can work on them for an hour here, half an hour there.
I have a couple of spare diff centres. One turned out to be AOK and also a 3.54:1 ratio. Previous owner of Wallit must have wanted to give hime even longer legs. Anyway cleaned that one up, oiled and glad wrapped and put into stock.
The other diff is a 4.7:1 ratio but the axle it came from had a small hole in the diff pan so there was water in the oil when I stripped it. Crownwheel & pinion were rust free but the taper roler bearings had suffered a bit.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/268.jpg
I decided I'd replace the bearings and set up the diff. Timken are a bit expensive, it would have cost over $200 in bearings, so I ended up with a no-name (well Bearmach but no-name on the bearing so probably Indian), a Timken (with a Bearmach sticker) and a couple of mixed (inners & outers from different manufacturers). With that and a few shims I was ready ....
First problem was going to be setting the pinion height.
I decided to work on the basis that the pinion height was correct when stripped. So by measuring the overall height of the old pinion thrust bearing and the new one I could then measure the shim behind the old bearing and add or subtract the difference in bearing height.
Bearing outers were removed using a punch (not much room but a couple of cutouts to get to the bearing races).
I have a very small surface plate, so on with a magnetic base and a dial gauge and measure the bearing heights.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/269.jpg
New shim calculated so the bearing outers for both pinion bearings were pressed into place (with the shim behind the thrust bearing).
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/270.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/271.jpg
The inner race of the pinion thrust bearing was pressed into place and the pinion assembly put back into the diff centre.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/272.jpg
Now comes a bit of messing around to set the pre-load on the pinion bearings.
You can see why it costs a bit to get someone to do this for you because of the number of times you have to assemble, tighten, then take apart again to swap shims around. The seal will not be fitted until the assembly has been fully checked.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/273.jpg
Next will be some string around the input shaft and a weight to check the pre-load (6-25 inch pounds). The diameter the string is working on will be under 2" so the weight needs to be between 7 and 28lbs.
After all this I hope the pinion height is correct otherwise it all has to come apart again, the pinion thrust outer race removed and the shim changed !!
More when I find time to get back into the shed.
Colin
Pressed the inners bearings onto the crownwheel assembly earlier today.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/255.jpg
Crownwheel bearings look like ex military.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...013/05/256.jpg
Should be fun balancing everything to get the crownwheel assembly into place and the endfloat set correctly. Might make a holder for the diff.
Need to source some more shims for the pinion shaft, can't quite get the pre-load set correctly. Alternatively I could get one ground down, I know a couple of people with a surface grinder.
Probably best to get the crownwheel fitted and check for the correct mesh of the crownwheel & pinion before spending too much time getting the pre-load set correctly.
Colin
Sorry to hear that mate, I hope the health issues are not too serious. I didn't follow up on the V8 as Kaa45's son (my nephew Andrew) offered me Danny's Turbo'd Isuzu County so I've got my hands full againQuote:
Originally Posted by gromit
G'day Colin,Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
Good to have you back posting again. I follow Dolphint's sentiment that I hope that your health issues are not major ones and the medication does its job without setting anything else out of balance. Take care Colin and it is good to see you working again on the project.
Kind Regards
Lionel
Just paid for some DeLuxe seats from LR Series (plus a lot of other bits), and seatbelts (plus Defender mirrors and lots of other bits) from Paddocks.
Shipping was exxy on the seats but cheaper than getting them re-covered locally.
I have an industrial sewing machine now but I'll use that for the Series 2, FFR & 2a GS seats..... just need to source the material & thread.
Started to make a list of stuff to be done and it seems to get longer everytime I think about it.
Replace doortops.
Repair door bottoms.
Replace door locks.
Replace radiator (new one came with Wallit) and hoses.
Check steering box & relay.
Drop off all the steering arms, check, paint, grease & fit new boots.
Fit seats & seatbelts (when they arrive).
Replace rear brake flexi pipe.
Fit brake master (when reservoir arrives) and get brakes working.
Fix reverse lights.
Replace windscreens (need to source some first).
Source a jack (like most of my LR's it came without one).
Then there's some panel beating & painting to be done but that can wait until it's on club plates.
Need to get the diff centre and a steering relay finished before all the new parts turn up.
Colin
Nice to see you back Colin! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by gromit
I bought my glass from Paddock; it seems to be very good quality and was a sensible price and they were prepared to ship it, unlike Craddock,
Cheers Charlie
Thanks Charlie, never thought of shipping glass.Quote:
Originally Posted by chazza
I have a price from a fellow forum member for getting laminated cut and etched locally (approx $70 each). I'll have to investigate Paddocks prices & shipping.
I'm thinking along the lines of a softop windscreen frame with new glass and a hardtop windscreen frame with new glass. I should be able to move them between vehicles for roadworthy purposes :)
Colin
For the thread try a boot maker and use bee's wax on the thread so it sew's easily.Quote:
Originally Posted by gromit
.