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Thread: Daihatsu diesel conversion problems

  1. #21
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    May 2013
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    Yep the synchro was the right way round....Interesting, the rear bearing housing is off a different box (also series 3) I might change it back.....I`ve just re checked the alignment and yes I was working in Thousands of an inch (spot the novice) and have now got it to 0.001 which I`m happy with. Now the quirky bit, I offered up the bellhousing expecting it to slide on but its stiff. The spiggot bush is in an adaptor in the flywheel (pressed in) (ok whacked in) As far as I can measure it, it is in square, but the input shaft is suggesting its not. Surely the bell housing can`t have distorted? I just want to clear this alignment thing up before going further.....It does seem to agree with Arthur also if the input shaft is off centre making fourth walk out especially under heavy load. Yeah I`m getting the shivers a bit too....

  2. #22
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    May 2013
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    Better just add its got a just fitted ashcroft high ratio transfer box....Just to open another can of worms though I can`t see that the rear bearing housing could be in a different spot.

  3. #23
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    Oct 2012
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    If you havent got a dial gauge I would suggest you buy one. Bolted to the flywheel you can check for any misalignment and if parralel .Not that dear and heaps of other uses as well

  4. #24
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    I`m gonna

  5. #25
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    Aug 2006
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    Melbourn(ish)
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    ahh the dreaded long shaft droop..

    check the centering of the input shaft in the bell housing relative to the studs then do the same for the spigot bearing inside the flywheel.

    I bet that you'll find the input shaft on the gearbox has dropped down 1-2mm and is just not quite jumping in when offered up and is dragging the splines.

    If Im in doubt as to a spline/spigot alignment issue I pull the box out remove the clutch and do a dummy up with the inspection port on the top of the bell housing (metal plate under the gear lever ball mount) and have a good look at whats actually happening on the spigot rather than trusting numbers. Its all too easy to mix up the measurements when your turning back and forth.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  6. #26
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    May 2013
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    Rightyo progress...... I offered up the bell housing and input shaft alone. Too tight. Hmm studs misaligned? No I checked them. Remove them anyway, shaft slides in nicely but the housing is 1/2" skewed. Pullit off again wobble the spiggot bush adaptor with a spare shaft pop out it comes. As a bonus it looks like the adaptor to flywheel joint has been performing the role of spiggot bush and spinning. Still a tightish fit when fully in so I tapped (no whacking this time) it back in with a drift and put the bell housing back on....sweet. Now for the Land rover bush job. I loctited it in place with the input shaft and bell housing fitted and have left it to cure overnight. Tomorrow I`ll turn it over on the starter with a bracket alongside the fourth gear synchro cone and see if there`s any wobble, if not I`m planning a little liquid steel around the perimeter of the bush adaptor, not so much to hold it in place but to stop it from walking its way out of the flywheel again. I havent many other options right now as this is our only car and the nearest suitable machine shop is 200km away....It`s looking like the culprit as a result of the misaligned plate binding up the bush adaptor and spinning it loosely in the flywheel the input shaft must`ve been all over the shop. It feels really smooth now in place. I will be checking the input shaft centralisation though......

  7. #27
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    Aug 2006
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    Dont use the liquid steel if you have the choice... hit on something out of the loctite 600 range

    Loctite ® 620

    638,648 and 620 would be the best bets, 680 and 690 would also work if A, you can get them and B, you dont want to take it out with hand tools again.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Elliston SA
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    Heres another update......I got the spiggot bush straight by drilling and tapping 3 holes in the addaptor and screwing in allen headed grub screws (out of a surfboard!!!!) that I could turn to centralise it, measuring with feeler gauges. It was handy having the bell housing separate so I could wind the engine over on the starter to see if there was any wobble in the input shaft. Initially there was, but now nothing is visible though I didn`t measure it. It`s definately way better than it was. While the bell housing was off I tried wobbling the end of the mainshaft, a tiny amount of movement but I thought not enough to worry about. So it all went back together (synchro the right way round). I haven`t driven it yet (still putting fiddly bits back on) but 3rd and fourth still don`t really feel like they`re locking in positively, certainly not as strongly as 1 and 2. Is this normal? The detent recess in the shaft is not worn, and I have a reverse gear spring in there, and did all the jiggling to line it up right. Anyone tried deepening this recess slightly? Still I`m feeling marginally more confident this time........

  9. #29
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    May 2013
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    Here`s my latest theory....I`ve worn the splines inside the input shaft and although the engine is aligned now, the now tapered splines are still forcing 4th gear out. Is this possible or is it more likely the play in the crankshft (0.005")? It`s doing my nut a bit!

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
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    under a rock, next to a tree, at Broadmarsh
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    Hi Tim

    I would be asking if there is a difference with the synchromesh rings, between a 2A and the S3, you may have the wrong one.

    As for the coupling teeth, it would not had time to wear a taper, but it may have marked the leading edge.

    Undo the bolt in the selector fork on the selector shaft and see if you can push the selector fork further along the rod into the 4th gear position.

    Now you have me curious, I will stick my nose into the workshop manual and see if I can work out anything else that would prevent the 4th gear engaging .
    .

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