Thread: Series III with Ford motor, Best cooling fan setup ?

Originally Posted by wozapinin

I've got the 4.1 (got alloy head and have had iron head) in my shorty with c4 auto and 3.55 diffs. The radiator is standard 4 core with thermo fan same width as radiator (I've tried original engine driven fan both clutch and fixed) and it's the same in the sand and high revs on the highway. The temp comes up but as soon as the revs come down the fan brings temp down to therm switch preset. Real anoying as setup works real well and a real bummer in hot weather.
My next mod is to put defender bonnet and front grill. This will give me the room to fit original xf radiator. give it a 1/4 more serfice area for cooling (good for the hwy may improve sand driving a bit but we'll see.
Was talking to LJWA a while back and his better half grew up on a station uo north (hot climate) and they had a fleet of landy's, some with holdens some with fords... Apparenty the fords ran way to hot all the time and there was nothing they could do to fix.
Also the ford's are good for about 4000 revs, anything over and they get hot.
Still ford motors are cheap and theres alot more around than the holden motors nowadays. I'm on motor number 7 in mine and always have one ready to replace. Can't live without driving the old girl for too long.

Did you originaly fit the cross flow yourself and if so did you need an adapter kit or engineered it yourself. I'm after a kit or info on how to fit said engine to my series 3 109.

Must be the confined engine bay in regards to the Fords running hot as in my many years on the road I have had numerous Falcons and Holdens (I don't count Commodores as Holdens) and never had a problem with the Fords and to be honest only a few with the Holdens. Then again you have to work the Holden much more to get near the Ford performance.

I had a ford 250 and there was a steel plate between the aluminium pump body and the block. Don't know if this applies to your engine though. The steel plate had rusted out on mine and had a smallish hole, less than a 5c piece. As a result alot of the water wasn't going through the radiator, lots of cavitation I guess. This showed up when the engine was at highway speed. You'll see what two gaskets under the pump, with the steel plate in the middle. Only real way if it is rusted is to pull the pump off.