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Thread: Radiator choices

  1. #1
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    Radiator choices

    I'm replacing every component in my cooling system, more for peace of mind than anything. My question is what radiator to put in it, nothing really wrong with my current one but as I'm doing everything else .... As far as I can see I've got 3 real choices

    1. OEM radiator from UK = $380 landed
    2. OEM radiator from Britcars in Melbourne = $480
    3. Fabricated all aluminium from Aussie Desert Coolers = $750

    Buying from UK drawbacks are possibly damage in transit and it would be problematic to return for repair or refund should something be wrong. If I buy from Britcars in Melb I know I'll have no problems. Which leaves the third option - the all aluminium one. I took my car in to Aussie Desert Coolers and talked with Norm the proprietor about it, he'd require my original rad for two days to model a new one on and he seemed sure aluminium was the way to go over a copper/bronze one.

    Is an all aluminium custom made one worth the extra money ? Presumably it will be a superior radiator compared to the 'built to a budget' original ones.

    Any input would be appreciated.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junosi View Post
    OEM radiator from Britcars in Melbourne = $480.
    OEM or Chinese copy?

    I paid about the same for one which I'm sure is a copy - it has a label on top where "coolant" is spelled "coolent".
    Ron B.
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    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



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  3. #3
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    I'm not sure. I visitied Graeme at Britcars - he gave me two prices - $644 and $480 which I thought he said was for genuine or oem, but not really sure.

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    p38arover's Avatar
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    OEM = genuine
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

  5. #5
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    Not sure Graeme was using OEM in that way. He gave me another price on viscous fan unit and quoted me for LR genuine 309, OEM 228 and knockoff 168. Might have to give him a call and see what his $480 radiator is exactly. Still have to decide whether to go down the Desert Cooler route though

  6. #6
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    My understanding...

    As far as I understand the parts structure its like this:

    OEM (Original Equipment Manufacturer) item is a part from the people/business who made the original and spare components for LandRover and is probably (but not definitley) 100% exactly the same as the LR item. Generally no guarantees or warranty support from LR although the OEM probably offers 'like' terms. Not that this is really a consideration for our well out of warranty vehicles!

    Genuine is a genuine Landrover numbered item. Generally from the one and only OEM but sometimes consequent batches of spares can be sourced from a different company (say, if the original provider goes belly up). Full LR warrantee on both part and vehicle (again not that this bit is considerable with any of our 'oldish' P38's).

    Knock off's could be made anywhere (generally China, but then again, what isn't these days?) and really a case of 'pot luck'. Unless someone like GRaeme (who has been around these things for years err, decades) has heard enough good reports to suggest having a go with it, I generally don't go there. In saying that, I have bought knock offs for my vehicles in the past but only for non-essential items & accessories like seat covers... probably wouldn't touch them for a cooling system going to north oz.

    I'm no expert, but thats how its been explained to me in the past. Please let me know if I'm wrong or off the mark though!

    As far as the value in the Aluminum unit, I would suggest the standard OEM item (probably from Graeme) would be more than good enough given your current standard one (and probably most of the rest of ours) has served for approx. 10-15 years. A new one will be a massive step up from that and should be good for around that period too, but without the wear and tear performance drops we are probably all suffering (just from them gunking up).

    If you want peace of mind, I have a mate who has 15-20 years in the radiator/cooling industry with extensive knowledge and would be happy to ask him if you want to have a chat for advice or direction... he may even know the best value equation for your needs. PM me if you want and I'll give him a bell with your number.

    Hoo-Roo, Dave and the 'pretty pig'

  7. #7
    Tombie Guest
    OEM / LR will be fine...

    Worked for the last 10 years

    Only need a full custom if your going to change the operating parameters of the vehicle. Eg, 400bhp engine etc.. If its just a mildly tweaked stocker, go original.

    Have the block power flushed, new coolant, thermostat, new hoses etc... I personally would shove a new Waterpump and Viscous fan hub whilst I was at it....
    Then it should be good for another 10 years..

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tombie2 View Post
    Have the block power flushed, new coolant, thermostat, new hoses etc... I personally would shove a new Waterpump and Viscous fan hub whilst I was at it....
    Hadn't thought about flushing the block, might be a good idea. I'm replacing all other components at the same time - viscous, pump, hoses, thermostat and rad.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Junosi View Post
    Hadn't thought about flushing the block, might be a good idea.
    If you saw the state of my rad when opened you will see the need to flush the system / Block at regular intervals, the crap comes from the block so I will be flushing mine at least every 2 years with a coolant change.
    Since my new rad has been fitted the Temp gauge sits just into the normal section when the car is moving, in heavy traffic it moves up a little. This is in the very hot weather in Perth in the recent months. Before the gauge was always at the mid point so the car is running much cooler now.

  10. #10
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    12 months ago I put a new radiator in and new thermostat and changed all the hoses, best thing I ever did. Temp Gauge sits just under half way mark and never moves, even in 40+ degrees peak hour driving with the AC on full blast.

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