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Thread: Changing the Camshaft p38

  1. #1
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    Changing the Camshaft p38

    My thor 4.6 is at 197000klm and has started to make a knocking sound from the engine when cold for a minute or so. The knocking is only when the engine is under load and once gone only returns when the engine is stone cold again.
    I am thinking cam or followers but am not sure
    I am off to the UK on Friday so can pick up a cam, followers, timing chain and gears to change the lot in one hit. What I would like to know is this easy enough with the engine in situe, is there enough room to get the cam in and out without messing with the air-con.
    Any ideas on the knock or other advice?

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    More probably piston slap, which can be heard more easily on an alloy engine.

    Tappets will rattle not knock.

    having said that at 197Kk a new cam could be necessary. my RRC has 194 now and very quiet tappets so I see no need as yet to change..
    Regards Philip A

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    I keep reading about piston slap whist searching on engine knocks on warm up. I understand the theory but cannot clarify if its acceptable or needs to be addressed.
    Still would like to know how hard to remove the cam in situe

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    Im no expert on this, but Piston slap i thought would not have gone away as the oil pressure rose (engine became warm).

    I would maybe replace the Oil filter and check the oil pump.
    If there is a problem with a partially blocked filter or oil pump issue,
    that could cause a noise until pressure has risen enough for the oil to flow.

    Hard to say without hearing, i could be way off.

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    The 1st thing I did was flush the engine, change oil and filter ( old oil and filter 4000ks 4 months old), add lifter cleaner additive. Since I have added Lucas oil treatment.
    Still wanting to know if the cam comes out easily.

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    If I recall correctly, I was able to change the cam in situ without disconnecting any aircon stuff. It was 8 years ago.

    Pull the grille, radiator and, I think, oil cooler to give clearance for the cam to come out.
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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    Quote Originally Posted by wayneg View Post
    I keep reading about piston slap whist searching on engine knocks on warm up. I understand the theory but cannot clarify if its acceptable or needs to be addressed.
    Still would like to know how hard to remove the cam in situe
    Search google on "GM LS1 piston slap" ...there are several recordings which demonstrate it quite clearly... ...don't ask but according to the "experts" piston slap is no big deal... guess it depends on who is paying said experts...

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    Knocking/Rattling

    Wayne, my 3.9 developed a knock on start up and the oil pressure light took about 10 seconds to go out, at this stage there was 240k on the dial so I thought big ends, lifters anything that could affect or be affected by lack of oil pressure. The cause, the oil pressure relief valve would not close properly, don't always assume the most expensive fault especially with knocking engines.
    Piston slap is normally associated with worn rings, pistons and/or bore, if the engine is not smoking I would look elsewhere for the source.
    I sold my Disco 1 with 275k on the oil, it did not smoke, rattle or knock and at the time I had the oil pressure relief valve changed at 240k oil pressure was still at factory specs. Change your oil and filter every 5k with quality products and your engine will live forever, $60 every 3 months versus a rebuild, no contest.

    Cheers

    Rushy

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    Quote Originally Posted by wayneg View Post
    The 1st thing I did was flush the engine, change oil and filter ( old oil and filter 4000ks 4 months old), add lifter cleaner additive. Since I have added Lucas oil treatment.
    Still wanting to know if the cam comes out easily.
    From JE Robison's blog:

    How about the engines that rap at idle? I’ve had several late model Discos at the shop with noise complaints. In two cases, dealers told the drivers they had noise from liners moving up and down, and they suggested the motor was about to fail as a result. One dealer actually got the motor hot and heard it rap, at which time he sprayed the side of the block with a hose and the rap went away. He told the customer that was evidence of liner movement.

    Actually, it wasn’t. These photos make it pretty clear that late model liners have nowhere to move. The hose test simply showed that the noise went away when the engine block was cooled – in other words, the noise was triggered by thermal expansion.

    Steve and I sorted that noise question out on another engine a few months back. On that motor – which had exactly the same hot rap – we found the piston skirts had collapsed in about ten thousandths of an inch. That was enough to make them rock when they got hot, and they rapped good and loud.

    On that engine we expanded the piston skirts and refitted the pistons. No more rap. But did that repair need to be done? Loose piston skirts would not lead to a failure. I’ll bet that motor would have run 25,000 miles with that rap, maybe a lot longer. In any case, new pistons are the fix. Liners are not involved at all, unless the block were to crack when the head bolts were cinched down one more time . . .
    Ron B.
    VK2OTC

    2003 L322 Range Rover Vogue 4.4 V8 Auto
    2007 Yamaha XJR1300
    Previous: 1983, 1986 RRC; 1995, 1996 P38A; 1995 Disco1; 1984 V8 County 110; Series IIA



    RIP Bucko - Riding on Forever

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