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Thread: EAS Compressor running to long.

  1. #1
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    EAS Compressor running to long.

    Hi All I recently bought a p38 1995 4.0 SE that had sat for 12 months with EAS issues, to cut a long story short I replaced rear bellows, fixed leaks (bellows inlets), fitted new compressor & valve block seals. The RR does not sag overnight and will raise immediately if I select high mode after been parked over night. The problem I have now is that the compressor is running most of the time, I have tried opening the doors when standard height is set to see if it shuts off but the compressor continues to run then on occasions it will shut off for a few seconds and then fire up again, this tells me it is not the temp switch shutting it off as I believe it should stay off for 3 minutes before attempting to run again if it is over temp.

    I have calibrated the sensors with homemade blocks & SW software and everthings appears to work OK switching to Highway mode ect ect. I have checked plug under LH seat. Prior to valve block seal replacement I had a three soft faults show up over a week. The fault was always the same "inlet valve stuck open"

    When driving I cannot hear when the compressor is running so not sure if it is the same on the road but it always feel hot when I check it after a run

    Any help on what to check next would be appreciated. How often should I expect the compressor to run when parked with height stable?

    Cheers

    Phil
    Gold Coast

  2. #2
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    Hi Phil

    A few things to check out:
    Air leaking past the non-return valves might trigger that fault. Did you put them back in like the pic below and use no Vasoline or grease on them?


    From memory, the inlet valve solenoid is the second from the right in the photo below


    Did you replace the o-rings on the shaft and underneath the solenoid? Not sure what the "correct" procedure is for cleaning the solenoid but I used a bit of the o-ring grease to lubricate the bits that move.


    How was the diaphragm on the block? Any signs of wear or tears?


    Cheers, Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  3. #3
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    Hi Paul, Thank you for the reply. I followed your very well detailed guide for valve block repair & made sure the three valves were clean and free of grease on reassembly. The only seals I didn't replace were the solenoid shaft seals as they appeared OK I did replace the inner and outer seals underneath and the soapy water test show no evidence of external leaks. The diaphragm appeared to be in good condition so I used it again.

    I have searched the web a bit more and found a few references to faulty height sensors causing excessive compressor run time. The only fault I have had is "inlet valve stuck open" and this has not happened again since valve block overhaul. If the sensors were faulty shouldn't this result in a hard or soft sensor fault showing up. Regards Phil

  4. #4
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    It's also a good idea to replace the teflon seal on the compressor piston.

    When it is worn, it is much less effective and the compressor has to work twice as hard as normal to achieve the same result.

    This repair often negates the need to replace a compressor.

    Dave
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

  5. #5
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    Thanks Dave, I did replace the compressor seals using Airbag Mans kit before doing the valve block seals. I almost feel like redoing the valve block again but I don't think it will make any difference. What I might do is rig up a light to show me how often the compressor is running when I am driving as been a deaf git I cannot hear it. The only test I have done is with the bonnet up, Is it possible that compressor may not be running so often when moving? Phil

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by philjphil View Post
    Any help on what to check next would be appreciated. How often should I expect the compressor to run when parked with height stable?
    Parked and height stable the compressor shouldn't be running at all unless you have a leak or it's below minimum pressure. It should only switch on when (resevoir) pressure is low and turn off when pressure gets to its high value. I fitted a simple pressure gauge ($10) to mine to see exactly what was going on. It should be stable in the 135-155 psi range from memory. A pressure gauge would let you observe what pressure its up to at least and maybe observe it dropping due to leaks.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Junosi. Where is the best place to T pressure gauge?

  8. #8
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    I've put my 'T' junction on the air tank resevoir line fairly close to the valve block - which then connects on to my pressure gauge screwed to the front of the car along with my schraeder vavles for my homemade eas bypass system.


  9. #9
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    Nice set up... I will try to pick up bits for simple weekend project. Thanks Phil

  10. #10
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    Taking Junosi's advice I hooked up pressure gauge and found that the compressor was only building up to 90 psi, gauge was installed on line to tank. This was enough to inflate bags and run EAS OK but to low for pressure switch to turn off compressor. I then pressure tested line to tank it held pressure, bench tested compressor and it instantly hit 170 psi so then I removed valve block & pulled off diaphragm housing everything looked OK, pulled off NRV housing everything look OK. So a little disappointed that I didn't find anything wrong reassembled & fired up RR with door open & watched pressure built up to 135 psi & compressor switched off in about 5 minutes, closed door bags inflated compressor back on until tank hit 135psi very happy. Lesson learned you are lost trouble shooting EAS without a pressure gauge. Thanks again for the help

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