Thread: Engine mounts

The ticking, does it sound like its coming from a leak from an exhaust manifold gasket or closer to the cat?? Mine makes a noise like its a leaking gasket yet i cant smell anything and disappears when the car gets close to operating temp.

Originally Posted by daljames

The ticking, does it sound like its coming from a leak from an exhaust manifold gasket or closer to the cat?? Mine makes a noise like its a leaking gasket yet i cant smell anything and disappears when the car gets close to operating temp.

I was convinced it was a rocker or lifter but it was only audible when driving for a few minutes from cold then gone. Mike came around to have a good look as he has more experience with these things than I do plus I am going deaf. He though from the start it was a manifold blow but after taking the heat shields off and using a makeshift stethoscope could not track down the noise. Mike then got under the car with the Engine running with the scope and could pick up a rattle from the LH cat.

Yeah I thought I had tappet issues too, but it's just the cat... Smooth as silk once warm, no noise apart from the viscous fan!

Cheers
Keithy

Well I got my shiny new engine mounts in the post so today I had a go at replacement. The N/S one is pretty straight forward and was quite easy to remove and refit. The drivers side one is another matter. The bottom fixing are easily accessible but the top ones are a pig. I cannot see how to get at them. Rave says remove the lower steering column shaft but I cant see how that will help. My plan is to remove the inner wheel arch, undo the bottom mount bolts and hopefully by jacking the engine up I will be able to get at the bolts. Anyone done this? Tips?
The old mounts are well and truly knackered, below a couple of pics old and new

This afternoon I had a go at the drivers side mount and managed to swap it over with all fingers intact. For future reference to aide others this is how I did the job.
Remove top radiator fan cowling.
Remove road wheel, put car on axle stands etc...
remove inner wheel arch.
undo the 2 lower engine mount nuts.
raise the drivers side of the engine gradually, I placed the factory bottle jack on the axle pushing the engine up ( a small flat piece of wood between engine and jack). Every few mm raised look through the air bag tower to see the engine mount upper nuts coming into view.
When you can get at the upper nuts remove both then continue raising the engine bit by bit checking nothing is getting caught up. The engine needs to be raised about 4 to 5 cms then the old mount can be wiggled out from below.
Refit new mount and get all 4 nuts on a couple of turns. This will entail lowering the engine a tiny bit at a time and getting all 4 studs through the mounting plates. Once all nuts are on lower the engine another 1cm and theN completely tighten the top 2 nuts. when these are tight the engine can be fully lowered and the bottom nuts tightened.
refit arch and wheel.
No need to remove the steering column as rave SAYS!
While I was under the car I also renewed the anti roll bar links
A few pics, it looks like there is a fair bit of room to work but remember the camera was tiny and could fit where I could not

As i could only upload 5 pics before here are a couple of the new mount in situe and the old mount

Excellent. Thanks.

Notice any difference with the new mounts, or new sway bar links?

As you can see my mounts were well and truly shot, after replacement tickover became nice and smooth where before there was a little vibration. The links made no apparent difference but are so cheap I did them anyway. I think the Mount gave up during driving the Halland Track where the car dropped into numerouse deep water filled holes