Thread: Minor leak after valve block overhaul

This one's right up my alley!

It's your NRV, (non return valve) on the exhaust side.

Take it apart again and look closely at the domed part of the valve and you will probably find it is pitted or grooved and the air leaks past the very small o ring.

I tried to rebuild mine with some liqiud steel, but before I actually used it I managed to get an old good one that works great. Thanks Paul!

Touch wood the EAS has never worked better. I just got back from taking a couple on a tour over the Brindies and as they were elderly I dropped the car everytime we stopped. Very impressive!

Got bogged on the access road to Mt Coree. It took a bit of road building to get through but the guests just loved the 'little bit extra' we threw in.

Didn't tell them I was looking for a place to set up camp for the night!

Thats great info.
When I was doing those small seals I took a double take at the end of one of those valves as it looked misshaped to my eye. Now for more exact advice please. Is the exhaust valve the nearest one to the exhaust outlet?

pretty sure it's the NRV with the dome pointing down in to the main block, and the other 2 are pointing up.

Here's a work in progress where I'm trying to document the valve block flows and components. Maybe someone has already done it (please!)... or if you want to add/correct my errors... all input welcome.

Cheers, Paul.

Hi Paul,
Thanks for the picture this is great. I've been having an air leak problem for a while now and I'm trying to find the culprit. What I did was bring the vehicle home put the vehicle in the garage and set the suspension on the highest setting and leave the drivers door slightly ajar to prevent the computer doing it's caretaker thing, switched off the interior light to prevent the battery going flat and then left the vehicle alone until the following morning. I've now identified that the dodgy "system" is the offside rear corner, I took the wrong air line off the valve block and this depressured the system, so I was reluctant do this another three times to find which port was the right one. It's always going to be the last one no matter which order you disconnect them. I also used the emergency shraeder (spelling) valves to identify the problem being in the valve block and not the air bag and the tubing. Gee these things are fun aren't they......... Again thanks for the picture.

Happy to help Nomad9. If the problem is just with the connection at the air spring, try cutting 5mm off the end of the air line with a sharp knife or air hose cutters and re-seat it

Repeat for each line, and at each end until problem is gone. Next step is take the valve block out and check the 2x 6mm o-rings under the collet for the problem line.

cheers, Paul.

Today I stripped the valve block again and gave everything a thorough inspection before re-build. This time I cleaned all the O-ring lube ( supplied in the kit ) from the rings and refitted them dry. I cleaned again all the NRV mating surfaces before re-fit and re-cleaned the diaphragm seat I did come across one thing that could have been a cause of a leak, one of the O-rings on the shaft of the solenoid next to the pressure relief valve had not seated correctly and was partially crushed. As I kept all the old O-rings I found the best of the old ones and re-used that. After re-fit and air up all seems promising. Left the car for 3 hours and re-started and checked if the compressor was running. Thankfully no, so the tank appears to be holding pressure again, car is sitting 4 square and I couldnot hear any of the solenoids clicking , fingers crossed!
Now I am hoping some one might have one of the shaft of the solenoid O-rings spare. This is the very fine one.

aaaa

yep, give me a call or e-mail... you have my details.

Cheers, Paul.