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Thread: More Radiator/ EAS problems & silly Questions ??

  1. #1
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    More Radiator/ EAS problems & silly Questions ??

    Yesterday the Good wife was driving Tyrendarra Tractor (98-99 P38 R.R. 4.6). Pulled into outlaws, stopped, top radiator hose blow off. Posible causes please. Not running hot. May have just been weak spring radiator clamp!!! now replaced with proper worm drive clamp, never did like spring clamps.
    Any other ideas.
    1st silly Q. How to tell if you have an air lock in Radiator system.
    Luckilly T.T. was stopped in an up hill driveway. Made refill easier. Tried to use manual air valves to raise front/ lower rear. But eveytime engine started suspension would level itself. Doesn't have isolation switch from air valve block YET
    2nd silly Q. How to stop car from leveling itself. Is there a fuse that can be pulled to stop this etc.
    After refilling radiator ?? I think, drove 35km home no over heating problems that I could tell. Standard temp gauge sat dead center where it always is. Yes I know standard gauge not the best but yet to fit anything else.
    3rd silly Q. Has anybody split top radiator hose & fitted a filler neck to aid in refilling radiator. Making this the hightest point. We used to do simular with the racecars where radiator cap was lower than the cylinder head. Worked perfectly. Would this work on R.R.

    Now for Air Suspension problem. The following already done. Rebuilt Air block & compressor and fitted new drive motor, dried desicant. Still may have small air leak in air lines that I'm yet to fix.
    Problem. Nearly every time a door is open & closed the air block lets air out of the system . Fut Fut Fut. If door opened & closed a couple of times car is down on access height /bump stops and compressor has to pump system up again as you drive off. Any ideas on this one.
    So 4th silly Q. Is this the system just trying to level itself because of air leak or is there a preprogram that automaticlly lowers car to access height that I'm yet to find out about [has also happened when I've turned key off] or is something else strange happening.
    Your help would be grately appreciated.

    Regard Gary

  2. #2
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    To prevent it from 'self-levelling' you can either leave one of the doors or boot open or you can pull the relay under the passenger seat. I've been considering putting a more permanent switch on my relay as I often don't want my vehicle self-levelling.

    As for air-lock, main thing is to make sure the bleed hose that comes off the little nipple on top of the rad is clear - pull it off and blow through it then reconnect it before refilling.

  3. #3
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    I recently had a similar event to yours! The standard spring type clamps are useless once they've been played with a few times! I'd suggest replacing every one of your hose clamps with worm drive type when you get the chance! It might cost you a bit (don't buy cheapies, go for tridon or something quality), but you wont have it in the back of your mind all the time while driving! Plus they hold better anyway and are easier to remove and replace when the time comes!

    As for your self levelling drama, as mentioned above, leave a door or the tailgate open and she'll stay exactly where you left it (unless its got some awesome leaks happening)!!

    And lastly, when you open/shut the doors and it makes the (and I quote) "fut fut fut" noises, that's the car levelling itself! It'll do it all day long, even if the car is off and locked up! The EAS ECU has been told that rangies are not allowed to be not level so until it hits the bump stops it'll drop a bit here or there depending on if you are putting things in the car or taking things out (as to where the weight is being added or removed).

    Hope this helps!
    Keithy

  4. #4
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    Re: 3rd Silly Question.

    I have fitted a Tefba coolant filter into the top radiator hose.

    MAKO Marketing

    It has a screw cap for access to the filter screen. I found it was perfect for refilling the radiator after a flush.

    Dave
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33chinacars View Post
    Now for Air Suspension problem. The following already done. Rebuilt Air block & compressor and fitted new drive motor, dried desicant. Still may have small air leak in air lines that I'm yet to fix.
    Problem. Nearly every time a door is open & closed the air block lets air out of the system . Fut Fut Fut. If door opened & closed a couple of times car is down on access height /bump stops and compressor has to pump system up again as you drive off. Any ideas on this one.

    Regard Gary
    There is a fix out there that you change some of the wiring under the bonnet (at the fuse box) and it totally disables the EAS until the ignition is on, all it does is change where the system draws it's power from. VERY simple to do, but I don't have a P38, so I haven't bothered to keep a copy...
    I could try toget the details if you like?

    Cheers,
    Fraser

  6. #6
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    Thanks one and all. Looks like there is a few thinks I will be changing and fixing. Time & family permitting of course. Have yet to see what happens if door is left open . Was going to do that today but ran out of time.
    It may still have an air leak as well. When I go out to the shed next day usually find it on bump stops.
    Dave does the tefba work and how well
    Fraser if you can find a link to that fix it would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks again All

    Regards Gary

  7. #7
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    Has anyone fitted a Tefba filter to a 99+ model? Not as much straight hose available on these engines and under bonnet clearance may be a bit tight, and the hose is very close to the alternator.

    Might give it a go anyway. My guesstimate is that the hose OD is approx 40mm (on my 99) so the 1.5" size should fit. Sound reasonable?

    Cheers
    Paul.
    My toys, projects and write-ups at PaulP38a.com

  8. #8
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    The TEFBA certainly works if you have junk floating around in your cooling system. I used to have one on my RRC and I cleaned it out once a month and caught quite a lot of alum fragments from going into the radiator.

    For this reason I put one on my P38, but to my surprise, it was pretty clear each time I checked it.

    I have since, in the last few months, done a major overhaul - heads off, machined, new head gaskets, new radiator etc , so i don't expect it will have much to do now either.

    It's really one of those "peace of mind" things - and with the P38, I'll take any of those that I can get.
    2011 Range Rover Sport SDV6 Autobiography
    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    2004 Freelander TD4 SE
    1997 Range Rover 4.6 HSE
    1994 Range Rover Vogue
    ----------------------------------------

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by 33chinacars View Post
    Thanks one and all. Looks like there is a few thinks I will be changing and fixing. Time & family permitting of course. Have yet to see what happens if door is left open . Was going to do that today but ran out of time.
    It may still have an air leak as well. When I go out to the shed next day usually find it on bump stops.
    Dave does the tefba work and how well
    Fraser if you can find a link to that fix it would be greatly appreciated

    Thanks again All

    Regards Gary
    Gary, have a look here:
    EAS Timer Disable

    I like the idea with pins 2 and 4 (I would put a little SPDT switch to connect pin 2 to either pin 4 or it's original wire, so you can return it to normal if you felt like it)

    I have a complete EAS system sitting on my bench at home, I can check the pin numbers tonight if you like.

    Fraser

  10. #10
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    Well I've done some testing over the last few days. First pumped up air bags and left back open. Rear end on bump stops over night. Next I bypassed valve block for the rear only & pumped things up again. This time after 24 hours rear end is still riding high. So I assume there is a problem with my rebuilt valve block . Not sure where or what to look for now . Have had " R.R. & L.R. exhaust valve perminatly close" message a few times lately. So I guess thats where I start. But which is which.

    Also fuse for EAS under passenger seat I take it that you have to remove trim to access it ??

    Gary

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