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Interesting. Since the last action in the EKA entry -IS- unlocking, what does this mean?Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Also, if it was the inertia switch, wouldnt the engine crank but not start? --- I tried the inertia switch but no change I am afraid. It was a funny feeling switch though, it clicked down (by feel) but didnt click back up like I expected.
I think you miss read Bee utey's messageQuote:
Originally Posted by glenhendry
Quote:
Originally Posted by bee utey
Mike
OK. I have checked the bonnet switch best I could. Hard to see in there. The car has always complained about the bonnet being open in the past, but I am not certain how to test it in this current immobilised state. I will work it further.
Secondly, I am definitely NOT getting the side lights flashing during the EKA procedure. The drivers door lock is physically moving and unlocking the door, but I do not think that the BeCM knows that the EKA is underway.
Along with the bonnet switch, I think this is my next course. I need to work out what is stopping the becm from seeing the EKA procedure is underway.
Thanks everyone for your help so far. Other reading suggests that the becm is out of sync from the ecu, but since it started yesterday, I dont think that is it.
Once youve done your 4 turns to lock to tell the BECM you are about to enter the EKA you should only get the side lights indicator inside the car on the instrument cluster light up, not the sidelights themselves. At least thats how it works on mine. But hey, they can be individuals these things...
From RAVE again:
"When the EKA code has been entered, the security LED will continue to flash in deterrent mode to show the alarm is partially disarmed and will be triggered if the bonnet is opened." I assume you then have to lock/unlock using the handset to fully disarm the vehicle.
If your dash reads KEY CODE LOCKOUT you have to wait until it resets. (30 mins)
"If the vehicle has not been locked with the remote handset then in step 4 (of the EKA procedure ie after you have closed all the doors) the key must be turned 4 times to the lock position."
What a circus. I'm glad I don't have one. Pity I can't just copy/paste the RAVE instructions easily. Hope you win.
With mine when closing bonnet have to give an extra bush down on the drivers side to get bonnet to lock in. Looks as tho its shut but gets bonnet open message otherwise. Hope this is of some help.
Gary
Well guys, thanks for not giving up on me. I am not giving up. I spent another 6 hours today as well as 8 hours yesterday having stern words to my Rangie.
I pulled out the battery, the battery casing, the bonnet latch (GEE thats hard to get to), the fuse box. I disconnected and reconnected all the plugs on the fuse box. I disconnected, sanded and re-tightened all the earth points and positive battery terminals. I took off the body plate atop the radiator. I reconnected the drivers door to body multi plug. I disconnected and reconnected every BeCM connector I could access easily. I pushed the inertia switch button. I did a special RR dance with my daughter. I sang to her delicately. I prayed.
Attached is the pic of the difficult to remove bonnet microswitch. Hopefully this helps others in the future.
I am still not driving. I have no idea what to do. Now after I did the RR renos today, when I "break in" by using the key instead of the remote fob, I get loud annoying horn noises when I didnt before, I think that when I was redoing all the earth points behind the battery holder I 'fixed' the horn. I cant believe this dumb system doesnt realise that I have the key that opens the door and also the same key that fits the ignition and I cant be trusted.
The bonnet latch switch looks fine. fyi in the future - the grille is very easy to remove, the battery and battery holder is easy to remove, the fuse box is easy to remove, the radiator top plate is easy to remove, but all that takes 2 hours to get to the bonnet switch easily. And my best advice in the universe is: dont fight with a multiplug connector like it is your wife. Spend 1 minute and WORK OUT what the lock clip thing is on each multiplug that stops it falling apart and then just unclip it before you let the dragon out :)
Thanks daljames for that specific detail, I was trying to watch the external indicator lights rather than the dashboard lights.
Glen
It doesn't sound too promising.... unfortunately.
Usually the RR dance with one's offspring will do the trick !
I can't help wondering if the door latch mechanism itself is dodgy and needs to be replaced. Not saying its definitely the problem but all the symptoms are there.
I bought my replacement unit from Britpart for about $240.
Then, unfortunately if you thought today's exercise tested your patience, wait until you have a go at swapping the door latch out.
I documented my findings here...
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/p38a-range...oor-latch.html
If you decide to give it a go, I'd be happy to give you a hand.
Cheers
Dave
Onya Dave - you are a champ. I am really getting stumped now. I dont think the car knows that I am trying to do the EKA, so I fear that the driver's door latch is not listening carefully to my key movements.Quote:
Originally Posted by adm333
Can you just simply disconnect the wiring to this switch, and just reconnect it to a normal (on off) toggle switch .... this way you manually turn it on / offQuote:
Originally Posted by glenhendry
Or better still ... Just leave it disconnect ... this way the bonnet is always recorded closed
Don't really know about your system ... and don't know if it's been covered before ..... But this might help
I can't remember where, But I saw a thread that described the troubles of a bad earth to the BECM at hand ... something about they tried a replacement BECM and did not solve the problem .... Further investigation found a 5v recorded, They cleaned up a earth point and then full 12 volts was restored and this resolved the problems
Any one remember this thread?
Cheers
Mike